Accommodation

 

 

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Introduction

 

The Calcutta of the 1940s was a much more crowded city than it had ever been. The war brought many more workers for the war industries as well as hundreds of thousands of soldiers from all over the world. Many building such as schools, museums, and hotels were requisitioned to house them.  The political turmoils as well as the famine further brought vast numbers of refugees to the city.  How and Where did they all find somewhere to stay? And what where housing conditions like for those already there, living in anything from huts on pavements to aristocratic palaces ?

 

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          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

Where to live in Calcutta

On Coming to take up my new post in Calcutta I was confronted with several options as to residence. There were no official residences for the ever-changing personnel of Government. Instead we enjoyed a generous Calcutta Allowance. For a young bachelor like myself, the normal choice was between (a) living rather expensively at the United Services Club, (b) going into a chummery with colleagues, or (c) being a paying guest with a senior official who had a wife with him. I relished none of these options. The United Services Club was a dreary morgue of old men dozing in leather chairs but still holding tenaciously onto the latest periodicals from England. Prom time to time this boredom was disrupted by the noisy incursion of young civilians or police up for the weekend from the Mofussil. Meanwhile in the background regiments of white-coated bearers hovered and floated like bored ghosts. The argument against joining a chummery was that I did not have any special chums in Calcutta and those whom I did know were only drinking pals. Still less did I relish the idea of playing a gigolo role to the bored wife of some official.

Micheal Carritt, ICS officer. Calcutta, 1930s.
(source: Micheal Carritt: A Mole in the Crown. New Delhi: Rupa 1986)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Micheal Carritt )

 

 

 

 

 

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Our House

 

 

 

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Finding a house

StuartScan038

 

Must have house cannot possibly refuse simply gorgeous golf and bridge for you implore on bended knees     jane

 

Malcolm Moncrieff Stuart, I.C.S. (Indian Civil Service) District Magistrate 24 Parganas, Calcutta, 1940s

(source: personal scrapbook kept by Malcolm Moncrieff Stuart O.B.E., I.C.S. seen on 20-Dec-2005 / Reproduced by courtesy of Mrs. Malcolm Moncrieff Stuart)

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta

I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta during World War II. My family consisted of my mother, father and three daughters, I was the eldest daughter. My brother had not been born yet. We lived in an apartment block in Mission Row, not far from Dalhousie Square — the spot where the “Black Hole of Calcutta” was supposed to have taken place — though Indian historians deny this episode.

My neighbours consisted of a Chinese family who had trekked from Burma, an Anglo-Indian family - Mr and Mrs Carter, a Portuguese family — Mr and Mrs Coelho and their 4 sons, and 2 Baghdad Jewish families — the Nahoums and the Manassehs.

My family lived on the top floor and from our veranda (whose doors and windows had been plastered with black and brown paper, as protection from broken glass during the air raid), I could see the steeple and weather cock of St Andrews Church, and in the background Howrah Bridge, the life-line of Calcutta connecting the 2 sides of the mighty Hooghly River.

Katyun Randhawa, a young Indian (Parsi) girl, Calcutta, 1942-3

 

(source: A5756150 The bombing of Calcutta by the Japanese Edited at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

We had a large house

[…] Megna Mills compound - our home- We had a large house consisting of a 'Hal Camera', a ’Khana Camera', three 'Palan Cameras', two 'Goosle Cameras', a 'Bottle Khana’, a 'Borchi Khana', a large front verandah and a long narrow back verandah.

Kenneth Miln, son of a ‘jute wallah’. Jagatdal/Calcutta, 1945-49
 (source: Letter sent to us  by Mr Kenneth Miln himself, July 2006 / Reproduced by courtesy of Kenneth Miln)

 

 

Ranchi Lake

Our house was a seven-roomed bungalow in an L-shape in Old Commissioners' Compound which was just near the Ranchi Lake. The Ranchi Lake was something of a mystery. There were so many legends and superstitions surrounding it such as the one which said it claimed a life every year - that most people steered clear of it. My bother Barney got an unmerciful caning because he'd been caught swimming in the Ranchi Lake. It was an enormous lake and parts of it were covered so thickly with water lilies that one could quite easily have stepped into it  without realising there was water there.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 14 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

she was virtually on her own when she went up there

We had a terrace, as the roof of the house was called and my Aunt had a room built for herself which was her bedroom which I shared with her. There was a bathroom built adjoining this so she was virtually on her own when she went up there.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 15 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

A Fairy Tale bed

She had an enormous four poster bed. It had been shipped over from England and it had two huge mattresses, which always reminded me of the fairy story of the Princess and the Pea. The combined height of the bed with the mattresses was so great that I couldn't even climb on to it. I had to get on a chair and then climb on the bed. Oh how I loved this bed and used to he dreaming and imagining all sorts of wonderful things which came alive from the story books which I read. From a very young age I was an avid reader and read great volumes of Hans Christian Anderson, The Brothers Grimm and anything literally that I could lay my hands on.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 15-16 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

They were so house proud

I have vivid memories of their home. It was crammed with ornaments and little incidental tables in heavily carved wood. They were so house proud - Burra Aunty would plump up the cushions as soon as one rose from a chair. The chairs were always covered with Anti-Macassars and […]

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Darjeeling, 1947
(source: page 37-38 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

Aunty Dolly was very house proud

Aunty Dolly was very house proud and the dining room was graced by an enormous and very beautiful table which seated about sixteen people. She had a piece of glass cut to fit the top so that the polish would not be spoiled and when she gave dinner parties, this table would be laid with an array of silver, with a splendid epergne in the centre. We used to watch the Bearer and his assistant setting the table, starched serviettes rolled into mock candlesticks and set into the glasses. Or sometimes lotus flowers made from the serviettes placed on the plates. Her crockery too was wonderful, much of it having been handed down to her by her grandmother who had brought it all when she came from England. We had a piano too, which had also come from England. My great-grandmother died just after Marie was born, so we had never actually known her although I always felt I did. I heard so much about her from Aunty Dolly who always referred to her as "Mamma".

The sitting room or "Drawing Room" as she called it, was carpeted with lush Persian carpet and all the furniture shone so that one could see one's reflection in it.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 18 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

The girls were all taught to be chatelaines of the old type

The girls in our family were all taught to be chatelaines of the old type. To learn to sew a fine seam and keep a fine table and keep detailed household accounts - a habit which I still have. We embroidered all the linen ourselves. The sheets were all done with drawn thread borders and monograms. The towels too were all monogrammed. We also did lots of needlework and cross stitch for the local church fetes. Since Aunty Dolly and I were Church of England and the rest Roman Catholic - this was the gain of both churches since we patronised them both and did work for both. 

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 18 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

Uncle had gone

This [death of her grandfather] was not the only change to which I returned after my nine months in Darjeeling. The house in Ranchi had been sold and the whole family were in two rooms in Calcutta. My Uncle had gone, he said to safeguard his father's estates in the Punjab but he never came back and after partition I do not think it was possible for him to come back in the terrible days of rioting and killing which followed.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Calcutta, 1947
(source: page 40-41 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

 

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The Neighbourhood

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta

I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta during World War II. My family consisted of my mother, father and three daughters, I was the eldest daughter. My brother had not been born yet. We lived in an apartment block in Mission Row, not far from Dalhousie Square — the spot where the “Black Hole of Calcutta” was supposed to have taken place — though Indian historians deny this episode.

My neighbours consisted of a Chinese family who had trekked from Burma, an Anglo-Indian family - Mr and Mrs Carter, a Portuguese family — Mr and Mrs Coelho and their 4 sons, and 2 Baghdad Jewish families — the Nahoums and the Manassehs.

My family lived on the top floor and from our veranda (whose doors and windows had been plastered with black and brown paper, as protection from broken glass during the air raid), I could see the steeple and weather cock of St Andrews Church, and in the background Howrah Bridge, the life-line of Calcutta connecting the 2 sides of the mighty Hooghly River.

Katyun Randhawa, a young Indian (Parsi) girl, Calcutta, 1942-3

 

(source: A5756150 The bombing of Calcutta by the Japanese Edited at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

Grandfather’s new house at 6, Lower Circular Road

When we entered grandfather’s new house at 6, Lower Circular Road on April 1, 1941, the street was purely residential with a sprinkling of shops opposite Karnani Estate. The bus service along this route was a wispy one. The buses were regular but never spoilt the peace of the locality. An Anglo-Indian family lived almost opposite us. One of the girls, Esme Tennent, was devastatingly attractive and became one of the nurses looking after aunt later on that year when she contracted typhoid.

Samir Mukerjee. Calcutta, 1941
(source: Samir Mukerjee: Keep the faith & the friends. The Telegraph: 31Oct2003)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Samir Mukerjee)

 

Moving out to Marquis Street

A few days after the contretemps with me - my father found a job with Uberoi's the firm who had originally employed my Uncle as a travelling salesman and he found some accommodation and came and took Aunty Dolly and Stephen and me away from Mazda Mansions leaving Wahid alone with my two sisters who said they did not want to leave.

Marquis Sheet - the place we went to live in was something you read about but cannot believe unless you have seen it. It was in what is known in India as a Bustee. Here you would call it a slum and in America you would call it a Ghetto. There were all sorts of people-there were Anglo Indians, there were South Indians - there were mostly people who for one reason or other had fallen foul of their families and had nowhere else to go. There was a Brahmin (the highest caste of Hindu). I never found out why he was in that place. There was a South Indian girl called Pippa who was married to a Sindi man and they were ostracised because Sindis are never allowed to marry outside their own community. They are very-sortof-in house. They had this little place and he used to make Indian sweets and also wholesaled tea so he gave us tea for free. She was so good to us because we were literally penniless sometimes and she used to bring us food. They were vegetarians but it was very nice food when she did bring it. She would sit for hours and talk to us and the great heartbreak of her life was that she had been unable to give her husband a child and she tried everything. This made her doubly a failure in her own eyes and in the eyes of his people who looked on it as God's visitation on him because he had broken their law and married a girl from outside the community.

The Landlord was a Sindi and he openly boasted that as far as he was concerned business came before even his mother and you paid your rent or else you were out. That was it. It was a dreadful place. We had to share a bathroom which was absolutely appalling.

There was running water only a couple of hours per day and we had fill up containers with water when it was flowing. Of course there was no hot water so cold water baths were the thing.

It was a dreadful place and I can remember one night waking up to find that the sheet was absolutely a mass of cockroaches. Somebody had fumigated their house and because this area was so open these cockroaches had flown off from there and just invaded us en masse. Never before had I seen and I hope never again to see anything like it. I was absolutely terrified as were we all. Can you imagine waking up in the middle of the night and finding your sheet one mass of brown crawling cockroaches - like something out of a horror film.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. La Martiniere for Girls, Calcutta, 1947
(source: page 46-47 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

Barrackpore - or part of it - had done its best to give the feel of England

May 1942

Less than two weeks after arrival, I and many others, were moved again to Barrackpore, about 20 miles away where a new Air H.Q was being formed. 3rd Tactical Air Force HQ it started as, but it changed its name a few times during my stay. I was to spend about two years in Barrackpore,[…]

Barrackpore, was the place where I spent most of my time. On the grand trunk road from Calcutta and on the main railway line from Calcutta to the east and north of India, it was situated on the River Hooghly, a tributary of the Ganges.

It consisted of a Railway station, a barracks, a cantonment, the Governor of Bengal’s residence and grounds and a native village. It had the river on one side, the railway on another and on the other two sides, jungle. The road from the station became just a dirt path as it neared the village, about a mile away.

[…]

Barrackpore wasn't really a bad place to be, as India goes. It had atmosphere. After a few days in tents we moved into the huge three story barrack blocks where we were as comfortable as expected. […]

No matter how hard you try, India takes over. Barrackpore - or part of it - had done its best to give the feel of England. It had the Governor's house and grounds, two crescents of beautiful bungalows and gardens mostly occupied by white Britishers and some wealthy Bengalis. It had an Anglican church and a Methodist chapel. During the daytime you can almost pretend that it is a little bit of England - even if it means ignoring a lot - but come nightfall and you are in no doubt whatsoever that you are in Bengal, India. Indian music live and from radios, sounds and smells from the jungle and bazaars. The large brilliant moon, rickshaws, the distant sound of the train - an Indian train - and all sorts of rustlings and noises on the edges of the road. Eventually I came to terms with it and indeed loved India best in the atmospheric moonlight with the characteristic smells and noises. To start with, we felt like intruders and overwhelmed by India.

 

Harry Tweedale, RAF Signals Section, Barrackpore,May/June 1942

 

(source: A6665457 TWEEDALE's WAR Part 11 Pages 85-92 at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

Entally

I was born and lived the 20 years of my life before leaving India, in Entally, a small area east of Lower Circular Road  best known for its Loreto Convent and for its market of the same name where a sausage of legendary taste was produced.

Mike Devery, schoolboy. Calcutta, 1940s
(source: Internet communications September 2004)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Mike Devery)

 

Khaleeli Manzil

There were also the Khaleelis ensconced in their comfortable mansion, Khaleeli Manzil. We got to know them well and the large family had tea and dinner with us a number of times. Mrs Khaleeli was covered from head to foot in the traditional chaadar. To brighten our teas she used to send us a Persian sweet called ranganak, with dates and walnuts, which was simply scrumptious. It had an exotic smoky flavour that I always imagined came from oriental markets in Cairo or Rabat.

Habib Khaleeli became our friend and turned out to be a born entertainer with his quips and exaggerations. I felt drawn to one of the sisters, Tuba, who was quiet and demure and blessed with a velvety voice. Every time I went to visit the Khaleelis right opposite our house, I used to look out for Tuba who often withdrew into her room and left me sorely disappointed.

Sometimes from their drawing room came the sound of Middle-Eastern music, wavering, sensuous, products of a culture where incense left its aroma on tangible objects and in the air. It only heightened my sense of mystery. Much later when we had all taken charge of our lives and had scattered in different parts of the world, Tuba went to Pakistan and married Sahibzada Yaqub Khan who was the foreign minister and a member of the aristocracy.

Khaleeli Manzil still stands, weathered by the Indian wind and rain. Habib Khaleeli lives there alone and is hardly in circulation. When I look at the house now, I think of the gaiety and merriment of a large, united family that I had the privilege of seeing during my impressionable years.

Samir Mukerjee. Schoolboy. Calcutta, August 1946
(source: Samir Mukerjee: Keep the faith & the friends. The Telegraph: 31Oct2003)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Samir Mukerjee)

 

We could look into the households in the slum from our third floor apartment windows

My father was a secretary of Calcutta YMCA and we stayed in a YMCA campus that had enormous lawns. Right in front of the building was a slum of poor non-Bengali Muslims from UP and Bihar, part of the large immigrant work force that kept the Bengali city alive. Everyone used to call them upcountry Muslims then. We could look into the households in the slum from our third floor apartment windows and see housewives cooking their meals and children playing. Beyond the slum were a couple of lower-middle and middle-middle class Bengali Hindu localities and, beyond them, another large slum of upcountry Muslims, Raja Bazaar. But unlike the next-door slum – modest, nameless – that slum was notorious as a den of criminals. In our slum, we used to know many of the residents by face. Some of the welfare work of the YMCA was meant for them and that also made them obsequious and friendly.

Ashis Nandy. Schoolboy, Calcutta, 1946

(source pages2  of Ashis Nandy: “Death of an Empire” in Persimmon. Asian Literature, Arts and Culture (Volume III, Number 1, New York, Spring 200r also www.sarai.net/journal/02PDF/03morphologies/ 04death_empire.pdf  pp 14-20 Sarai Reader 2002: The Cities of Everyday Life.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Ashis Nandy)

 

Col. Berkeley Hill

In Ranchi we had many friends. One of these was a Col. Berkeley Hill - a doctor who was a pioneer in the treatment of mad people to enable them to return to normal life. He wrote several books one of which was called ‘All Too Human’ about his children. He married a Madrassi woman who had been a patient of his. He himself was Welsh and sent his children (three boys, Sam, Owen and John and two girls, Rosalind and Margaret) to England to be educated. He advocated making children responsible at a young age and used to give them the money to pay their passage and school fees. He said he was not disappointed in any of them as they all learned to look after themselves. He died suddenly, of a heart attack and we went to the funeral.

 

He had a vast estate in Tatasilvai a village outside Ranchi which was again like an English country estate transplanted to India. In his will he decreed that everything - down to the last spoon had to be sold and the proceeds divided equally amongst his surviving children. Owen had been killed in active service so this left John, Sam and the two girls who were nurses. His widow suffered a relapse after his death and I did not see her again but John was very enamoured of Ida and used to send her huge boquets of flowers and baskets of fruit However, she would have none of him being besotted with Wahid.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 23-24 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

Phyllis Day

Another family we knew were the Days. Phyllis Day was an Anglo-Indian girl married to a Bengali man. This was very unusual, High caste Hindu families were very opposed to mixed marriages but even more so when the girt was "Half-caste". They had a huge house on the outskirts of Ranchi and we often visited them. There were many children - I cannot remember all of them, I was much younger and spent most of my time with Stephen when we went to their house. The last we heard of this family was that Phyllis had killed her husband. The details were never made public but this was years later when we were living in Calcutta and of course, people did not discuss things in front of the children.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 24 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

The D’Silvas

My brother Stephen and I had a private tutor, Mrs D'Silva, who lived in a large house off the main road- She was the wife of Reginald D'Silva whose family owned large chunks of land in Ranchi. They had only one child, a girl called Neelia, whose name was Mrs D'Silva's name spelt backwards • Aileen - and Uncle Reg as I always called him, used to say I, was his other daughter, I kept in touch with them for years, ever after, until I eventually left India.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source: page 25 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

The Palace

 

 

 

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          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

GOVERNMENT HOUSE

Government House, very centrally situated at the northern end of the Calcutta Maidan, is the most magnificent residential building in Calcutta. It was erected as a result of representations made by the Marquess of Wellesley, Governor-General (1798-1805), that the then existing Government House was not appropriate to the dignity and prestige of the Governor-General of India.

Designed by Captain Wyatt of the Corps of Engineers, the foundation stone was laid on the 5th February, 1799, and the building, erected at a cost of about Rs. 20 lakhs, formally opened and occupied by the Marquess of Wellesley on the 27th January 1803, with a Ball given in honour of the signing of the Treaty of Amiens.

The palace, consisting of the main building surmounted by a majestic silvery dome and four corner blocks, is almost a replica of Kedleston Hall, Lord Curzon's ancestral home in Derbyshire. It stands in the centre of an artistically laid-out park covering about six acres, and was the residence of the Viceroys of India till 1912, when, on the transfer of the Imperial capital to Delhi, it became the residence of the Governors of Bengal.

There are six gates to the building; the design of the two eastern and the two western ones attracting special attention, each being surmounted by a stone lion with a forepaw resting on a globe. The main gate is to the north, where the Visitors' Book is kept.

When the Governor is in residence, mounted sowars of his Bodyguard are on duty at the southern entrance, after the style of the Horseguards at Whitehall.   -

A magnificent flight of steps leads to the State Room, used only on State and Ceremonial occasions. The main entrance is through a handsome portico, supported by lofty classical columns and surmounted by the Royal Coat of Arms. The Throne Room, where the Throne of Tipu Sultan is still preserved, and the Grand Marble Hall are on the first floor ; the Ball Room. is on the floor above.

The Palace abounds with objects of art, many of which are of historic interest.

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 57-58  of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

BELVEDERE

Admission to the grounds only :—Free; open daily from sunrise to sunset.

Trams :—Kidderpore, Alipore, Behala.

Buses .—Nos. 3, 3A, 12, 12B.

This palatial building, in the Italian Renaissance style of architecture, set in an extensive park at Alipore, was the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governors of Bengal from 1854 to 1912. On the transfer of the Imperial capital from Calcutta to Delhi in 1912, Government House at Esplanade, hitherto the residence of the Viceroys, became the residence of the Governors of Bengal, Belvedere being reserved for the use of Viceroys on their visits to Calcutta.

The main entrance to Belvedere is on the north, from under a lofty gateway surmounted by a carved figure of a vigilant tiger. The drive sweeps round smooth lawns to a flight of steps guarded by two brass cannons, which were cast at Cossipore and bear the arms of the East India Company. The facade is adorned with the Royal Coat of Arms and supported by a double row of Ionic pillars crowned by Doric capitals.

On ceremonial occasions, when the gorgeously uniformed Viceroy's Bodyguard line the drive and the steps, and when Indian ladies in richly brocaded saris, and Indian gentlemen in their gay national costumes, mingle with the European guests, Belvedere and its surrounding lawns are a magnificent setting to a distinguished gathering.

Curiously enough, the origin and early owners of this magnificent building are lost in antiquity, Prince Azim-us-Khan being generally accepted as having built it in 1700. In 1780 however, Warren Hastings is recorded as having sold Belvedere to Major Tolly, constructor of Tolly's Nullah : Tolly, after residing there for some years, leased it to W. A. Brooke and on Tolly's death in 1802, it was put up for auction and passed through several hands before it was finally purchased in 1854, for the residence of the Lieutenant-Governors of Bengal, on the recommendation of Lord Dalhousie.

Since then it has been enlarged and improved upon by successive Lieutenant-Governors. Sir W. Gray, Lieutenant-Governor, 1867-1871, added the verandah on the east side and reconstructed the west wing. Sir A. Eden, Lieutenant-Governor, 1877-1882, built the whole of the centre main facade and added a wooden flooring to the central ballroom.  Sir S. Bayley, Lieutenant-Governor, 1887-1890, constructed the glazed dining room on the north-east side, while Sir C. Elliot, Lieutenant-Governor, 1891-1895, had the rooms on the upper storey of the west wing built, and substituted an archway for the door leading from the main staircase to the drawing room. Further improvements, including the construction of a racket court and swimming pools, were made by Lord Willingdon, Viceroy, 1930-1935.

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages  49-51 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

Galstaun Park

Alongside runs Camac Street, and facing Camac Street is Galstaun Park, the most magnificent private building in Calcutta; it stands in the midst of spacious grounds, beautifully laid-out with wide lawns, gorgeous flower-beds and a miniature lake.

During the Great War Mr. Galstaun very generously placed this commodious building at the disposal of the military authorities, to be used as a temporary hospital for British soldiers, and it was in this palatial building that Mr. Galstaun, in December 1921, received as his guest H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, afterwards King Edward VIII. Mr. Galstaun always very willingly lent his Park for open-air functions and allowed the general public free access to the grounds and swimming pool. The Park is now the Calcutta residence of H. E. H. the Nizam of Hyderabad.

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 125 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

City of Palaces

[going east on Ballygunge Circular Road]; on the left is Tripura House, the palatial residence of the Maharajah of Tripura: facing Tripura House is Dover Road.

 (source pages 92 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

 

[…] while at the corner of Middleton Street and Chowringhee Road stands Darbhanga House, the town residence of the Maharajah of Darbhanga, adorned with a handsome illuminated clock tower: […]

 (source pages 121-123 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

 

Immediately on the right, at No. 2 [Judge's Court Road], is Bejay Manzil, the Calcutta residence of the Maharajah ofBurdwan; alongside is New Road, leading to Burdwan Road. At the corner of New Road and Judge's Court Road is the South Telephone Exchange, and a few yards farther on, the crossing of Alipore Road. […]

 (source pages 153 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

At the corner of Alipore Road and Sterndale Road is the palace of the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and a little higher up (left), the Royal Agri-Horticultural Gardens; […]

 (source pages 153 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

 

Pursuing our way along the main thoroughfare [Park Street past Wood Street], we have on the left the town residence of the Nawab of Murshidabad; next, at No. 87 A, […]

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 87-91 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

Life at Woodlands

[…] but soon we left for Calcutta. It was that winter that I really came to appreciate our house there and the life it contained. "Woodlands" was very much the "third" house in Calcutta, surpassed in status only by "Belvedere," as the Viceregal Lodge was called, and Government House. It was a large white stucco building constructed by the colonial British in the classical East India Company style, with Ionic columns flanking the deep verandas that encircled the house, airy sash-windows, and gracious well-proportioned rooms. At one time the sons of Tipu Sultan, the ruler of Mysore who rebelled against the British and was killed in 1799, were imprisoned there, and they were still said to haunt the rooms. One summer we kept hearing strange sounds on the roof at night, and when no one in the family or on the staff could account for the noises, Ma summoned an exorcist. He turned out to be a most improbable little man wearing a solar topee and bustling efficiently about, but whatever his counter-magic was, it worked, and we heard nothing more of the ghosts.

My Cooch Behar grandfather had bought "Woodlands" from the British about a hundred years after the time of Tipu Sultan and had quickly transformed it into one of the social centres of Calcutta, a tradition that Ma, needless to say, continued magnificently. "Woodlands" was in a residential area of Calcutta, set in such a large garden that no other buildings were visible from the house. As soon as you drove through the great iron gates with the Cooch Behar crest emblazoned on them, and up the red gravel drive, you were surrounded by tall spreading trees and thickets of ornamental shrubs and bushes. There were beautifully kept flower-beds, too, with every kind of tropical flower: jasmine, frangipani, roses, poinsettias, and baku, a white star-shaped blossom with a strong scent. Within the grounds there were also a cricket pitch, a riding track, and two tennis-courts.

Behind the main house were the staff quarters and the stables. We kept about six ponies for us children, three or four horses for Ma, and a dozen more for any guests and the ADCs. In the garages Mr. Davidson, our English chauffeur, presided over a collection of motorcars ranging from Ma's latest sedan to some elderly sportscars that had belonged to my father. Mr. Davidson was reputed to have been the first man to drive a car in Calcutta, and I spent entrancing days talking to him in the garages. His daughter was a great friend of mine and, also, his house was a gathering-place for jockeys, so his advice about horses during the racing season was marvellously sound. I became a very knowledgeable purveyor of Mr. Davidson's racing tips to Ma's guests. The first of them to listen to me on the subject was the Viceroy's son, Lord Rattendon, who excused himself from lunch one day, telling Ma that he was off to place a bet on a horse called Royal Air Force that I had assured him would win the Viceroy's Cup that afternoon. Ma protested that I couldn't possibly know anything about the matter, but Lord Rattendon very sensibly followed my advice. Sure enough, that afternoon Royal Air Force came in first, and Ma was most impressed.

Inside "Woodlands," Ma had given her imagination full rein and had decorated each room in a different style. The scheme for the drawing-room was dictated by a beautiful Chinese screen made of wood and encrusted with jade and rose quartz, while others were French or English or Italian. Her own room was the most oriental in the house, filled with divans and Persian rugs and dominated by the fabulous carved ivory bed, with its great elephant tusks sticking dangerously out of the legs, which is now in the family museum in Baroda. However, the centre of the social life at "Woodlands" was the wide veranda overlooking the lawn where Ma liked to gather her guests and family around her. I think it was the first place in Calcutta ever to be furnished in the new style of the 1930s. At the time it was considered very up-to-date and unusual, with modern glass-topped tables and all the furniture very square and chunky-looking (though comfortable). We were very proud of it. Oddly enough, it seemed to blend perfectly with the formal drawing-room next door.

"Woodlands" was always full of people. Whenever we were in India we spent the Christmas season there, an especially important time because the Viceroy always came down from Delhi for a couple of weeks. As there usually wasn't enough room in the house for all our guests, some were accommodated in tents set up in the garden. In my childhood. Lord Willingdon was the Viceroy, and there was a constant coming and going between "Woodlands" and "Belvedere" when he was in residence. One of my most uncomfortable memories is of a garden-party at "Woodlands" held in a huge marquee on the lawn, when Menaka and I had to dance for Lady Willingdon. Dancing by itself was bad enough, but, worse, at the end of our performance we had to present her with flowers. She had a wellknown fondness for the colour mauve, but, as a result of some muddle, the servants gave me a bunch of red roses to present to her, while Menaka got the mauve sweet-peas to give to the Governor's wife. I shall never forget my agony of embarrassment when I heard Lady Willingdon's voice above me, saying firmly, "No, dear, I don't think these can be for me."

Theoretically, viceregal entertaining demanded perfection, but in practice attempting to reach such an unattainable standard invited disaster, and at "Woodlands" there always seemed to be some minor mishap. The most inexplicable and infuriating to Ma was a menu for a special dinner-party. After she had spent days planning it, the menu was finally printed in French, on handsome cards with the Cooch Behar crest at the top. But on the night of the dinner, Ma's Russian chef, who had earlier been a lieutenant in the czar's army, produced a sumptuous meal, not a single course of which corresponded to the printed menu. I don't think anyone minded except Ma, but she was certainly most put out.

Of all the many people who came to "Woodlands," a few stand out in my memory: the Maharaja of Kashmir, who always came for the races and sometimes stabled his horses there; Prince Aly Khan, who, like Ma's other Muslim friends, was intrigued by my Muslim name; and the specially thrilling Douglas Fairbanks, Sr., the great swashbuckling film star. I remember that he was expected at "Woodlands" in the early evening, and for two days beforehand I was in a silent turmoil dreading that he would be late and I should be sent to bed before he arrived. When the evening came, this dismal prospect seemed increasingly likely as the minutes passed, but mercifully I was reprieved. He had, it turned out, been caught by fans at the Howrah Bridge, then—as now—the only bridge over the Hooghly River, which flows through Calcutta. When he finally got to "Woodlands" at eleven o'clock, all his buttons had been torn off as souvenirs. I did meet him, and he was immensely charming. He gave each of us a signed photograph of himself. Mine was inscribed, "Remember the 23rd of May," and I could hardly believe the wonderful coincidence that he and I shared a birthday. I still have the photograph. Later he came to Cooch Behar on a shoot and I had an even more unexpected bit of luck. My nose had started to bleed—probably from overexcitement—and Douglas Fairbanks looked after me and put a key down my back to stop the bleeding.

But in the eyes of Ila, Menaka, and me, the most glamorous visitor of all was the Maharaja of Jaipur, who came to stay with us during the Christmas holidays of 1931, when I was twelve.

Gayatri Devi, princess of Cooch Behar. Calcutta, 1930s.
(source: pp. 87-90 Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia & New York: J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).

 

 

The end of the old Woodlands

The last big celebration we ever held at "Woodlands" was on the occasion of Indrajit's engagement to the Princess of Pithapuram. With the fall of Singapore to the Japanese in February, the war suddenly moved much closer to India. "Woodlands" was converted into a hospital, and Ma and Bhaiya moved into the chauffeur's quarters when they were in Calcutta. But Bhaiya had to spend most of his time in Cooch Behar, as it was quite close to the war zone. A huge American army base had been installed there, and the famous Burma Road went through Cooch Behar; together they transformed the sleepy little town into a bustling international centre which came to be known as "the G.I.'s Shangri-la." After the war we thought we might move back to "Woodlands," but by then too much had changed and too much was happening in India. The country was on the verge of gaining its independence, the princely states were contemplating their merger with the Indian Union, and, more specifically, "Woodlands" was sadly run down. Bhaiya sold the land, and today there are many houses and a nursing home where we once used to live. Somehow it pleases me that the whole area is still known as Woodlands.

Gayatri Devi, Maharani of Jaipur. Calcutta, 1942.
 (source: p. 187 Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia & New York: J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).

 

 

What remains of the palaces

The palace in Cooch Behar is fast disintegrating from neglect, but there are plans to remodel it as a medical school and teaching hospital. "Woodlands" remains only as a name in Calcutta and I no longer have any occasion to visit "Colinton," our house in Darjeeling.

Gayatri Devi, Maharani of Jaipur. Calcutta, 1970s.
 (source: Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia & New York: J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).

 

 

 

 

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The Rajbati

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

Coolies in front of Marble Palace

29

 

In contrast to the magnificent palace in background, two sweating coolies strain at a load of precious firewood.  The building is known as the Marble palace, contains a rich collections of paintings, lavishly furnished.  it belongs to a Bengali family who are alleged to feed hundreds of poor daily.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

Mysore House

and across Tollygunge Bridge, on the right, is "Mysore House", the historical palace built by Prince Golam Mohammed, son of Tippu Sultan : on the upper floor are a number of old portraits, paintings and manuscripts; conspicuous among them is a painting entitled "The Departure of the Sons of Tippu Sultan from the Zenana".

Returning to Russa Road and pursuing our way, we have on the left the well-known Shahi Mosque, built in 1843 by the same Prince Golam Mohammed; by the side of the mosque runs Prince Anwar Shah Road leading to Gariahat Road. In Prince Anwar Shah Road are the two famous palaces, built by the sons of Tippu Sultan, namely, the "Khas Mahal", now converted into the Shree Bharat Lakshmi Film Studio and the "Nautch Koti", now occupied by the Tollygunge High English School. A little way along Russa Road we come to Prince Golam Mohammed Charitable Dispensary, founded in 1873, alongside which is the approach road of the newly-constructed Christian Cemetery. This cemetery will, from 1940, replace the present Christian Burial Grounds in Lower Circular Road, which have been in use since 1840.

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 166 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mansion Courts

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

Galstaun Mansion

At the corner of Park Street and Russell Street stands that imposing building, Galstaun Mansion, having the distinction of being the largest mansion in Calcutta. It was built for Mr. J. C. Galstaun, landholder, merchant and well-known sportsman. Designed by Martin & Co. the foundation stone was laid in 1920 and the structure, of modern architecture, completed in 1923 at a cost of Rs. 65 lakhs.  The upper floors are let as residential flats, while the ground floor is occupied by business houses, including the Imperial Bank of India (Park Street Branch). It has a large frontage on both Park and Russell Streets, and from its roof splendid views of Calcutta and the river beyond can be obtained.

The southern wing of this mansion covers the site of the house built by Chief Justice Sir Henry Russell in about 1798; it was in this house that the beautiful Rose Alymer died on the 2nd March 1800, at the tender age of twenty. She was buried in the South Park Street Cemetery, and is immortalised in the following verses by that strange genius, Walter Savage Landor :

"Ah, what avails the sceptred race?

Ah, what the form divine?

What every virtue, every grace?

Rose Alymer, all were thine.

Rose Alymer, whom these wakeful eyes

May weep, but never see,

A night of memories and sighs

I consecrate to thee."

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 87 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

Addresses of Mansion Courts in 1940

Alexandra Court—60/1 Chowringhee Road. Phone, P.K. 162.

Amolia Chamber79 Wellesley Street-

Amolia Mansions—10 Wellesley Square.

Auckland Mansions—6/7 Lower Circular Road.

Auddytia Mansion—33A Doctor Lane.

Avenue Court—24 Syed Amir All Avenue.

Avenue House—Chowringhee Square.

Beed Mansion7 Central Avenue.

Bejoy Mansion—89 Ripon Street.

Birla Mansion—54 Chowringhee Road.

Brabourne Court—6 Chowringhee Lane.

Buckingham Court113A Ripon Street.

Central Court—2 Chittaranjan Avenue.

Chowringhee Court3 & 4 Chowringhee Lane.

Chowringhee Mansions—30 Chowringhee Road. Phone, Cal. 672.

Cohen Mansions— 14 Ripon Lane.

Coronation Court—West Range, Park Circus.

Crescent Court—39B Lower Circular Road.

Daw Building—184 Dharamcala Street.

Dharamtala Mansion —32 Dharamtala Street.

Durga Chamber—114 Lower Range, Park Circus.

Elgin Mansion—133 Dharsinitata Street.

Emerald Court—178 Lower Circular Road.

Esplanade Mansions—14 Government Place East.

Ezra Mansion—10 Government Place East.

Florence Mansion—15 Free School Street.

Forbes Mansion—10 Wellington Square.

Fountain Court—3 Middleton Street. Phone, Cal. 2204.

Galstaun Mansions—12 Park Street.

Grosvenor House—21 Old Court House Street.

Halwasiya Mansions—62/2 Moira Street.

Harrington Mansion—8 Harrington Street.

Jiwan Mansions—11 Middleton Row.

Jubilee Court—11 Harrlngton Street.

Jubilee Park—4B Little Russel Street.

Karananj Mansions—Kunction of Park Street and Free School St.

King Edward Court58 Chowringhee Road.

King's Chambers—40 McLeod Street.

King's Court—50 Theatre Road.

Lansdowne Mansion—89B Lansdowne Road.

Lee Court—36 Elgin Road.

Lindle Chambers—6A Hastings Street.

Lindsay Mansion—14 Lindsay Street.

Loudon Court—13 Loudon Street.

Marina Garden Court—191 Park Street New. Phone, P.K. 612.

Marquis Mansion—17 Marquis Lane.

Middleton Mansions—9 Middleton- Street.

Minto Mansion—77 Dharamtala Street.

Mission Court—P12 Mission Row Extension.

Mohini Mansion—94 Russa Road.

Palace Court—1 Kyd Street.

Park Chambers -93 Park Street.

Park Court—2 Syed Amir All Avenue. Phone, P.K. 1193.

Park House—6 Park Lane.

Park Mansion—Junction of Park Street and Free School Street.

Park Palace-1 Saharwady Avenue.

Paul Mansion—5 & 6 Bishop Lefroy Road.

Prince Court— 47 New Theatre Road. Phone, P.K. 1591.

Prince Mansion—10 Middleton Row.

Prince Mansion—5B Sandel Street.

Queen's Chambers31 Marquis Street.

Queen's Court20 McLeod Street.

Roy Mansion—10/ 4 Elgin Road.

Royal Chambers—Moira Street.

Royal Court—5/1 Russell Street.

Samavaya Mansion— 6 Hogg Street.

Shama Mansion—1 Mati Sil Street.

Siddiq MansionPark Street New ( P233 Park Circus). Phone, P.K- 1006.

Solomon Mansion—7 Royd Street.

Sree Nath Mansion—8/1 Lindsay Street.

Stephen Chamber—26 Chowringhee Road.

Stephen Court18 Park Street.

Stephen House— 4 & 5 Dalhousie Square. Phone, Cal. 1108.

Subid All Buildings—1 Madan Street.

Subid Ali Mansion—4C Madan Street.

Sultan Mansion—12 Marsden Street.

Temple Chambers—6 Old Post Office Street.

Victoria Chambers—5 Chowringhee Road.

Victoria Court—91 Elliott Road.

Victoria House—Chowringhee Square. Phone, Cal. 6200.

Waterloo Mansion—12 Waterloo Street.

Waverley Mansion—77/2 Sutendra Nath Banerjee Road.

Wellesley Mansion—44 Wellesley Street- .

White House—21 Chittaranjan Avenue.

Windsor Court—5A Sunder Street.

Windsor House—P14 Mission Row Extension.

 

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 244-246 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

!!NEW!!

Humayon Court – above the Lighthouse and New Empire Cinemas

Mazda Mansions – Free School Street (directly opposite the Armenian College)

Noor Buildings – Park Circus, 31 Beck Bagan Row.

Palace Court – in central Calcutta.

 

(Source: Contributors)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

Galstaun mansions

Some time early in this century an Armenian land-developer named Galstaun made a mint of money in Calcutta ... One of his more solid enterprises was the building of several huge four- and five-storey blocks of modern flats designed with some degree of luxury for the use of European residents. In actual fact, by the 1930s the residents were a mixed lot. Mark you, no Indians, but a variety of mixed descent in that grey area described as 'of the country'. One of these blocks was called inevitably Galstaun Mansions and it was here that I came to live chez Hummer for the two and a half years of my work as Under-Secretary to the government. It had a view over the Maidan, a lovely big room, ample and very good accommodation for my servants; my own official telephone installed on the nod, and a superb verandah with exotic plants and bead curtains. This verandah was not of course part of my rented space, but Mrs Hummer made it clear I was welcome to sit there in the early evening for my 'sundowner' drink, which she would share ... Now, at the dog-end of things, some fifty odd years later, there are many nostalgic memories, but no single one is more compelling than the recollection of those evening sessions on the verandah. I can hear the little sounds, feel the dusk turning to night and smell the smoke of the bustees' fires all around ... it faced southwest over the roofs of the bungalows below. It had a shiny pseudo-marble floor, a huge punkah revolving slowly and silently in the ceiling, basket chairs and small tables, all the inevitable bric-a-brac of an Indian residence. A cool evening breeze seemed always to be blowing off the river Hooghly, and the kass-kass blinds had just been rolled up to reveal the lights of the city below, and you could hear the distant rumble of traffic down Chowringhee.

Micheal Carritt, ICS officer. Calcutta, 1930s.
(source: Micheal Carritt: A Mole in the Crown. New Delhi: Rupa 1986)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Micheal Carritt )

 

 

Keeping Open House

My flat was at the top of a block near the Bishop's House at the south end of Chowringhee ... You entered the flat along a sort of open corridor, windowless on one side. Immediately in front stood the door to a small boxlike bedroom-writing room plus bathroom. This region I kept for myself. All the rest of the flat had by now become 'open house' to uniformed visitors ... The hospitality offered wasn't a thought-out affair—it had just evolved during the latter part of '41 as I got to know some newly-arrived British N.C.O.'s and thought well of them ... They brought friends; one thing led to another and by August '42 the flat was scarcely ever guestless ... men just arrived, by plane from the forward airstrips or off the  leave trains, sweaty and tired; threw their soiled clothes on the floor ... bathed, and settled in. Food they knew would be good, and the rooms reasonably clean and there'd be no houseproud 'memsahib' to worry over who did what or where things went. On January nights, when Calcutta can be chilly, if there wasn't enough bedding, the curtains came down and were used instead. A kind of practical communism prevailed. No one seemed to own anything in particular. I finished the war with more books and gramophone records than I began with, but few were those I'd had at the start.

Ian Stephens, editor of the Statesman. Calcutta, 1941-42
(source: Ian Stephens: Monsoon Morning. London: Ernest Benn, 1966)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with : Ian Stephens 1966)

 

 

 

 

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Boarding Houses

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

Addresses of Boarding Houses in 1940

Agabeg's Boarding Establishment—24 Chowringhee Road. Phone, Cal. 3721.

Astor House—44 Theatre Road. Phone, P.K. 745.

Bengal Boarding House—46/7 Harrison Road. Phone, B.B. 2008.

Buchanan's Boarding Establishment—14/1 Sudder Street. Phone, Cal. 3752.

City Boarding—27 Harrison Road. Phone, B.B. 3851.

Grand National Boarding—1 Bhabanath Sen St. Phe., B.B. 3180.

Hayton. R. A. 6 Rawdon Street. Phone. P.K. 841.

Hayton's Board and Residence—161 Dharamtala St. Phe., Cal. 1310.

Hollywood Boarding House—3 Ripon Street. Phone, P.K. 207.

Holm Croft—2/1 Harrington Street- Phone. P.K. 178.

Kenilworth—7 Little Russell Street. Phone, P.K. 325.

Killarney Lodge—3 Wood Street. Phone. P.K. 261.

Loch Lomond Lodge, Ltd. 12/1 Pretoria Street. Phone, P.K.1479.

McDonnell, L., Ltd. Boarding Establishment—1 Bishop Lefroy Road. Phone, P.K. 235.

New Kenilworth—1 & 2 Little Russell Street. Phone, P.K. 1879.

Presidency Boarding House—66 Harrison Road. Phone, B.B. 3569.

Salvation Army Naval and Military Home—2 Sudder Street. Phone, Cal. 3883.

Santi-Niketan Boarding House—16 Harrison Road. Phe., B.B.671.

Sarkies' Central Lodge—6/2 &. 6/3 Sudder Street. Phe., Cal. 5160.

 

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 248 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

!!NEW!!

FairlawnsSudder Street

(Source: Contributors)

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

… a pair of trousers and shoes for Rs 15

I made my first trip to Calcutta from Cochin in a third-class compartment of Howrah Mail. The ticket cost Rs 13.

I put up at a hotel owned by south Indians on Lake Road where a dormitory bed and two meals a day cost Rs 12 per month. At a departmental store in Esplanade, which is still there, I purchased a shirt and a pair of trousers and shoes for Rs 15.

First-class tram fare from Lake Market to Dalhousie was one anna then.

(N.S. Mani, newly employed office worker from Kerala, Calcutta, February 1945
(source: Telegraph Thursday, October 27, 2005)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with N.S. Mani )

 

 

 

 

 

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Student Hostel Days

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

Addresses of Hostels in 1940

Baker Hostel—8 Smith Lane. For students of Islamia College.

Birkmyre Hostel—4 Middleton Row- Phone, P.K. 998. Page 208.

Carmichael Hostel—51 Baitakhana Road. For Muslim students.

Elliott Hostel—Wellesley Square. For Madrassah students.

Oxford Mission Students' Hostel—43 Cornwallis. Street. Phone, B.B.4481.

Ram Mohan Roy Hostel102 Amherst Street. For students’ of City College.

Salvation Army Gidney Hostel for Young Business Women— 38 Dharamtala Street. Phone, Cal. 1673.

Scottish Church College Lady Dundas Hostel—17/1 Cornwallis Street. Phone, B.B. 3358.

St. Xavier's College Hostel—30 Park Street.

St. Xavier's College Hostel for Indian Students—219/1 Lower Circular Road.

Vidyasagar College Hostel—17 Cornwallis Street.

 

John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages 220 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta: Central Press, 1940.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

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The Village Hut

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

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In the Bustee

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

Children near entrance to U. S. air base at  Alipore, somewhere Garden Reach Road. Calcutta

Glenn Hensley, Photography Technician with US Army Airforce, Summer 1944

 

 (source: Glenn S. Hensley: Children at air base entrance, I003, "Children near entrance to U. S. air base at  Alipore, somewhere Garden Reach Road. Calcutta,"  seen at University of Chicago Hensley Photo Library at http://dsal.uchicago.edu/images/hensley as well as a  series of E-Mail interviews with Glenn Hensley between 12th June 2001 and 28th August 2001)

 

 (COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced by permission of Glenn Hensley and under a Creative Commons license)

 

 

Calcutta's poor

30

 

Calcutta's poor from a line to buy kerosene at 6 a.m.  Each little cubicle may contain a shop and living quarters for a family ranging possibly from 6 to 12.  Sanitary facilities consist of an open street drain.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

Cow dung patties

56

 

"Patty-cake Annie" is the nickname tagged to the makers of India's most plentiful fuel by American Soldiers who must indulge their sense of humor.  The sun-baked cow-dung patties are used by the poorer classes who cannot afford scarce wood for fuel to heat their homes and cook their food.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

Nothing can equal, for squalor and filth and stench, the bustees

Nothing can equal, for squalor and filth and stench, the bustees (workers' quarters) in Howrah and the suburbs north of Calcutta. . . . The great majority of the workers in the jute mills are compelled to live in private bustees. Under the Bengal Municipalities Act the duty of improving the slum areas is cast on the owners who make very handsome incomes from the poor occupants. But vested interests see to it that these powers under the Act are never brought into operation. It would be impossible to describe the condition of these bustees—' filthy disease-ridden hovels ', as they have been called, with no windows, chimneys or fireplaces, and the doorways so low that one has to bend almost on one's knees to enter. There is neither light nor water supply, and of course no sanitary arrangements. Access to groups of bustees is usually along a narrow tunnel of filth, breeding almost throughout the year, but particularly during the rains, myriads of mosquitoes and flies. . . .

"Conditions in certain parts of Howrah, which is the second biggest municipality in Bengal, are even worse than in the northern suburbs of Calcutta. Land being extremely valuable has been built on to the last available foot. The lanes on either sides of which these bustees have been built are not more than 3 feet wide, but right through them, as in the other mill areas, run the open drains."

 (Shiva Rao: "The Industrial Worker in India" pp. 113-140)
(source: pages 363-364 of Rajani Palme Dutt: “India To-Day” London: Victor Gollancz, 1940)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Rajani Palme Dutt)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

We could look into the households in the slum from our third floor apartment windows

My father was a secretary of Calcutta YMCA and we stayed in a YMCA campus that had enormous lawns. Right in front of the building was a slum of poor non-Bengali Muslims from UP and Bihar, part of the large immigrant work force that kept the Bengali city alive. Everyone used to call them upcountry Muslims then. We could look into the households in the slum from our third floor apartment windows and see housewives cooking their meals and children playing. Beyond the slum were a couple of lower-middle and middle-middle class Bengali Hindu localities and, beyond them, another large slum of upcountry Muslims, Raja Bazaar. But unlike the next-door slum – modest, nameless – that slum was notorious as a den of criminals. In our slum, we used to know many of the residents by face. Some of the welfare work of the YMCA was meant for them and that also made them obsequious and friendly.

Ashis Nandy. Schoolboy, Calcutta, 1946

(source pages2  of Ashis Nandy: “Death of an Empire” in Persimmon. Asian Literature, Arts and Culture (Volume III, Number 1, New York, Spring 200r also www.sarai.net/journal/02PDF/03morphologies/ 04death_empire.pdf  pp 14-20 Sarai Reader 2002: The Cities of Everyday Life.)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Ashis Nandy)

 

 

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In Barracks & Camps

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

R & R Hotel. Calcutta

 

Robert Sanders , USAAF 40th Bombergroup. Calcutta, 1945

(source: webpage http://40thbombgroup.org/indiapics2.html  Monday, 03-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of Bob Sanders)

 

 

Karnani Estates

07

 

Karnani Estates, mammoth apartment hotel for U.S. Army officers.  Known to the many thousands of transient and locally based officers as a social center, it has been provided with one of the most elaborately decorated bars of any officers club in the CBI theater.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

BILLETING

Officers.  Whether in Calcutta on leave or on duty an officer should have a written authorization to be in this city. Your best bet is to report immediately to the Billeting Officer in the Hindusthan Building in order to be steered straight to the most desirable quarters vacant. Bring copies of those orders. To telephone the Billeting Officer call Calcutta 7080, Ext. 22 between 0830-2400 hours. After 2400 hours, call Calcutta 3912.

Enlisted Men.  The American Red Cross Clubs have the best accommodations (and other billeting data) for E.M. If the ARC is unable to handle you, consult the Billeting Officer, Hindusthan Building, for the names of small hotels and rooming houses that are in-bounds. E.M. on T.D. in Calcutta must report to the Billeting Officer first. If nothing is available in the city the Billeting Officer will billet you in a nearby Army camp. The Continental Services Club, the Y.M.C.A., and the Salvation Army all maintain information service on billeting in the city.

Things To Remember.  1. In all places tap water is unfit to drink. Ask your room bearer for drinking water.

2. Lock up or check those Arms and Ammunition.

3. Bearers are paid by the hotel; therefore tipping is optional. If you're well-heeled kick in with a couple of annas but don't overdo it. Other people have to live there.

4. Most hotels operate on the European Plan which means that the rate per day includes three meals.

5. Each hotel has a laundry price list. When paying for laundry insist that the dhobie show you this list.

6. If you attempt the American habit of stripping a hotel room when you leave, it may prove embarrassing; for you'd be surprised how quickly those room bearers will trot out their mental check lists as you're in the act of departing.

 

(source: “The Calcutta Key” Services of Supply Base Section Two Division, Information and education Branch, United States Army Forces in India - Burma, 1945:  at: http://cbi-theater-12.home.comcast.net/~cbi-theater-12/calcuttakey/calcutta_key.html)

 

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

 

 

Roommates

After I wrote you last night, I expected to get to bed in reasonable time, but that was not to be. No indeed. Gus came in in a disgusting state of inebriation, and was so argumentative that I finally had to tell him off...after which he rather sullenly went to bed, lay there looking and sounding greatly like a dully animated porcine structure. I was about ready to turn the lights off when Captain Parsons entered, awakened Gus, and both of them indulged in drunken horseplay. Then they decided to gave some more drinks, and to satisfy them, I had a bottle of beer with them. They talked about everything, with Parsons rather rational, Gus clever enough, but belching hoggishly ever few moments. Not an inspiring sight, I assure you.

If my previous description of him sounded unflattering, it was because I was so impressed with the pig-like characteristics that his nose, mouth, and receding chin, with that crew cut lend his features at such moments. Shove an apple in his mouth and you might be very surprised indeed. If sound effects oinked, that would do it, and you could never tell the difference.

At any rate, Parsons wanted me to go outside to talk to him privately. He wanted to tell me something in my professional capacity. It was largely to the effect that he was drinking too much, realized it, and wanted to know what was wrong with him. From what he said, it seems that he feels inferior because he has only a fifth grade education; has been overseas before but this time he had to leave a wife and the only home security he ever knew. He hates his own people, and dislikes his present job of utilities officer very much. He kept me up until 3:30, and of course I did him no good. I understand now why he stresses that item of rank so much...it is the only thing he can pull.

Richard Beard, US Army Lieutenant Psychologist with 142 US military hospital. Calcutta, October 13, 1945.

(Source: p.217 of Elaine Pinkerton (ed.): “From Calcutta With Love: The World War II Letters of Richard and Reva Beard” Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press, 2002 / Reproduced by courtesy of Texas Tech University Press)

 

Pin-up girls in the wind

April 9, 1945

Dearest Ritter:

The frolicking wind blows wildly and irresponsibly through our compartment at this 5:30 afternoon hour. Our pinup girls are dancing on their heads or really kicking up their heels in wild abandon. Still no rain and so our lives are talcumed with dust at all hours of the day and night.

[…]

Richard Beard, US Army Lieutenant Psychologist with 142 US military hospital. Calcutta, April 9, 1945

(Source: page 140 ff  of Elaine Pinkerton (ed.): “From Calcutta With Love: The World War II Letters of Richard and Reva Beard” Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press, 2002 / Reproduced by courtesy of Texas Tech University Press)

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

Eventually we arrived at Calcutta

Eventually we arrived at Calcutta, and were billeted in a large Military Camp. It was a treat to be able to walk around again, and have a shower and clean up and get our clothes washed. Can you imagine how dirty we were after seven days on that stinking train? Our clothes were stiff and dirty, after being soaked in sweat, and dust for seven days, so the cold showers and the Bamboo Huts of the camp were considered to be a bit of a luxury.

Stan Martin, soldier, Calcutta, early 1940s

 

(source: A1982955 Stan Martin's WW2 story at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

Quartered on the Race Track

I arrived in India in the fall of 1944 and departed on Dec. 7th of 1945 on the anniversary of Pearl Harbor, on the USS General William Black.

My tour of duty in the CBI was a member of the 73rd Ord. Depot Co., located in Calcutta, India and I worked with the 809th Ord. Depot Co. (as part of the 12th Ord. Bn.).

We were housed at an orphanage in Dum Dum, a province of Calcutta and in the last six months of my tour we moved to Camp Hialeah which was located in the very center of the Calcutta Race Track across from Queen Victoria's Memorial. They were racing every day during the war. We were sleeping on straw-filled mattresses in mud-built huts with straw roofs, plus the daily dust, dirt and other waste of the race horses was not a pleasurable place to be for "one's health."

Arthur W. Sprankel, US Army soldier, 73rd Ord. Depot Co, Calcutta late 1945
(source: CBI Sound-off.Vol.49, No 2 Spring 2003)

 (COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Arthur W. Sprankel & CBI Sound Off)

 

Dengue fever at the museum

[…] we were billeted in the museum. This was in the main street of Calcutta, called Charingie. While I was there, we were getting bitten so much by the bugs in the place that I got Dingy fever, so I had a couple of days in bed. It cleared up and we were able to carry on and go to the pictures, […]which were really nice out there, because they were all air-conditioned and it was so hot in Calcutta. I always remember that on one occasion we went to see 'Romeo and Juliet'. Obviously it wasn't our taste of a picture and we made ourselves a bit of a nuisance what with, 'Wherefore art thou, Romeo?' and all the rest of it. 'Ssh, ssh', people went, so we got up and walked out.

Kenneth Shaw Prout, Army, Calcutta, 1944

 

(source: A5526489 Memories of a Bombardier 1940 - 1946 (Part 4) at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

Daddy would’nt put the officers who organised this camp in charge of a public lavatory in the smallest village in England

After going to an old camp where all particulars were taken, Daddy went with some others to a camp which had'nt long been built, situated at a suburb of Calcutta called Ballygunge. Here Daddy found himself a charpoy and then went off to have a shower followed by some dinner. By this time it was dark and Daddy had already realised that if "Worli" was the best organised camp he had ever been to then this present one from all the signs, was the worst. In fact, Daddy would’nt put the officers who organised this camp in charge of a public lavatory in the smallest village in England. After writing a letter to Mummy which would go off in an aeroplane in the morning all the way to England, Daddy had a good sleep because he was very tired after his journey and all the waiting about.

Leonard Charles Irvine, 4393843, Royal Air Force Flt Sgt Nav, Calcutta, 1945

 

(source: Leonard Charles Irvine "A LETTER TO MY SON" at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

Billeted in Alipore

Once again I was alone, no mates, and then a transfer to Alipore where all the trains turned around and the posh rich kids lived. My billet was a big house in a nice town with native policemen on the gate, (who seemed to let anyone in regardless), and half a dozen Indian boys who cooked lovely chips for a few annas.

Philip Miles, RAF photo reconnaissance unit, Calcutta, mid 1940s

 

(source: A4144664 What did you do in the RAF, Dad? (Part 2) at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

First impressions: Calcutta

16 July 1945: My first impressions of Calcutta were rather mixed. Besides having to pass through some of the worst areas, the inside of an ambulance is not the best place from which to view any city.

The hospital — Entally — was a pleasant surprise to us. We drove in through the bold iron gates, on either side of which extended high stone walls that encompass the entire hospital. We were taken past the main hospital buildings, which looked very imposing and consisted of white stone buildings with green shutters, rather on French lines — not surprising since it was originally a convent.

Watching fireflies on the veranda

Finally, we arrived at our mess. This indeed is very pleasant. It is a two-storey building with upper balcony, and my room is over the dining room. The floors are highly polished stone.

Matron takes a keen interest in the garden, and just now, with the rain, it is at its best. The lawns are beautifully green. In fact, apart from a few tropical palm trees mixed in with other trees, and of course the everlasting heat, with the roses in bloom, hollyhocks and gladioli one could easily imagine it was England. There’s the same noisy rooks, chattering sparrows, planes overhead and the railway near by.

What I most like doing is sitting in the cool of the evening (after a most satisfying dinner) on the veranda — watching the fireflies, flit to and fro in the dark like lighted matches, while the crickets sing and the little lizards dart around catching flies.

Henrietta Susan Isabella Burness, V.A.D., Calcutta, 16th July1945

 

(source: A1940870 Life in the VAD (Voluntary Aid Detachment), 1945at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

So I was not the most popular bloke

Alipore was a photo reconnaissance unit with (at last) Mosquito aircraft. I was in charge of ‘A' flight and had all airforce and instrument mechanics, most of the men were not keen upon having a strange NCO put in over them. I knew none of them, and they had been together all the way through Burma with photo reconnaissance spitfires, dating back from the time Singapore fell to Japan, all the way to India. And who was this mystery man (who knew about the new aircraft?) which none of them had ever seen before. So I was not the most popular bloke and I didn't even live with them but went off to my posh billet only to appear the next day.

Any major jobs and air tests, I was in charge (but not over the engine fitters they were a separate unit but they still lived with the other gangs). Any air tests I did, I flew with the ordinary pilot of that particular plane, and quite a few times I flew with the Group Captain. I got to know him quite well, really a nice man but again it did not make me the most popular, but what could I do it was my job. One day a few of us were taken to Dum Dum, Calcutta, where we spent a few days to see what happened to all the photography and how they (mostly girls) interpreted them. Four of us slept in little dark rooms in the Harem of the Palace of the Maharaja of Cooch Behar who had long since gone (taking all the harem girls with him.)

Philip Miles, RAF photo reconnaissance unit, Calcutta, mid 1940s

 

(source: A4144664 What did you do in the RAF, Dad? (Part 2) at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

 

A day out at the front

[Pilot Officer Thirlwell was a photo-reconnaissance Hurricane pilot, who arrived at Magwe just after the last of his squadron's aircraft crashed. As he had no job, he was sent] to Lashio to investigate the possibility of flying out the squadron personnel by China Airways to India. I went to the orderly room Flight Sergeant for transport, and he said 'you can have this Wolseley Fourteen, but I want something in return'. So I swapped a typewriter I found in the house in which I was billeted for this car, and drove to Lashio. Having confirmed the availability of China Airways, I was flown to Calcutta, only to be sent back to Burma, where I spent most of my time rescuing the special cameras from crashed photo-recce aircraft. After getting out of Burma for a second time, I had an extraordinary period based at the Great Eastern in Calcutta, the most expensive hotel in town. I would get into my Hurricane at Dum-Dum, fly to Chittagong where I refuelled from petrol drums using a hand pump. Having spent the night with the British Consul, I would fly to photograph Rangoon, before returning for more fuel at Chittagong, and on to Dum-Dum to get the film processed as quickly as possible. After a shower in the Great Eastern I would sit down to dinner being served by bearers in white coats and gloves.

Pilot Officer Thirlwell,  pilot of an RAF photo-reconnaissance Hurricane. Caclutta, mid 1940s .
(source: page 360, Julian Thompson: “The Imperial War Museum Book of the The War in Burma 1942-1945. London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 2002)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Julian Thompson)

 

Charpoys

[…] with a good bed to sleep on at night, we called them "charpoys", an Indian description for bed. Even the good beds were nothing like the ones we had back home, they were usually made of bamboo with jute twine as body support. We had the luxury here of having white sheets and always with the inevitable mosquito net to be slung over the bed supports.

Cliford Wood, Royal Air Force wireless operator, Calcutta, 1943-44

 

(source: A4254103 AN RAF WIRELESS OPERATOR ON THE BURMA FRONT (Part 3 of 3) at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with the original submitter/author)

 

 

 

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The Refugee Camp

 

 

 

 

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          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

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On the Street

 

 

 

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

Indian child bride

28

 

India has thousands of child brides.  The unfortunate young woman shown here feeding the infant from the giant coconut in foreground has been seen on Calcutta's streets day after day with he child.  Her misery is more than typical thousands of India's unfortunates.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

Homeless natives, sleeping

51

 

Most any block in the slum areas will find natives sleeping huddled together under any shelter they can find, frequently none at all.  How the thousands of homeless can survive under such conditions is beyond the understanding of many Western visitors.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

A British view of a Calcutta Street

Imagine walking along, say, Dalton Road and seeing, say, the Spencer brothers—one sitting crosslegged in the midst of his wares in a loincloth and a beautiful turban, the other .sitting right in the middle of the pavement bathing himself (with his clothes on') at one of the wells of water that spring up at intervals all the way along. Then next door probably a soothsayer or phrenologist with all sorts of weirdlooking objects hanging outside—tortoise shells, dead things, goodness know; what! Then, say, Mr Bell lying in his .string bed fast asleep in the street—or sitting there stitching away and machining in the midst of naked little urchins—boys, yelling little coloured birds. Rickshaws being drawn by men, gharries by horses. Dead cats and rats lying about all over the place! Such a bewildering conglomera tion—it is indescribable!

Laura Lidrell, atcress. Calcutta1944
(source: Geoffrey Kendal: The Shakespeare Wallah. London: Sidgick & Jackson, 1986 )

(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Geoffrey Kendal)

 

 

 

 

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Clothes & Fashions

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

Indian women in native sarees

26

 

Indian women, dressed in the native Saree, return from prayer at Jain Temple.  Little girls wear European dress usually until the marriage  age, although some mothers like to dress the little girls in Sarees.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

Sidewalk tonsorial parlor

58

 

Sidewalk tonsorial parlor.  India probably has a greater proportion of barbers than any nation, for in addition to the many salons which cater to the European and higher type Indian trade, these sidewalk shavers seem to ply their trade in every other block.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

Clothes washing

60

 

In case there's any doubt in our mind as to your dhobie's intentions with your best shirt, the expression on the face of the fiendish laundry-wallah battering the garment in this picture should remove it. 

In closing this album of Calcutta, the writer feels justified in observing that the reasons for the dhobie's methods remain, in spite of much research, among the greater mysteries of India.

Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine. Calcutta, mid 1940s

(source: webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/?  Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson, South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania)

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Memories of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

hated having the rolls in my hair every night

Not long after that my Uncle Bertie died. In company with many other little girls, I used to have my hair twisted with rags every night to produce a Shirley Temple effect. My hair was naturally curly anyway and people had a habit of sticking a finger into one of my curls and pulling it out. I hated this - hated having the rolls in my hair every night and on the day of the funeral I was sitting at the piano - tinkling on the keys and somebody stuck a finger in one of my curls, I jerked my head away and turned round to see Aunty Laura - his widow and remember thinking "I must be nice to her today." To this day, I detest having rollers in my hair!

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Calcutta 1939
(source: page 13 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

"Juliana curl"

Dr Sinha was an Indian man who was married to an English woman called Lilian. She was very friendly with my Aunt Dolly, possibly having a common base in that they were both white girls married to Indian men. Lilian, or Aunty Lil as we called her wore saries and she had long golden hair which reached to her ankles. They had two girls called Renee and Joyce. Joyce's claim to fame in my memory was an incident when she tried to do something called a "Juliana curl" in her hair and lodged a comb so fast in her tresses that it had to be cut out. Thereafter, a Juliana curl became a sort of in house joke with us.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Dehra Dun 1939
(source: page 12 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Toys

 

          _____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

          _____Contemporary Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___

 

 

 

 

 

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I was given a rubber doll for Christmas

That year, I was given a rubber doll for Christmas which was something of a novelty because rubber dolls had just become fashionable and mine had been specially imported. My brother Barney - always a hit of a nut - put it in the fire. Dehra Dun is cold in winter and we had a big open fire in the living room. He said he did it to see what rubber smells like when it bums. Anyway, he put it in the fire and came outside and sat down as if nothing had happened. My Aunt and my sisters and my mother were all gathered round the "Churi-wallee". This was a woman who came round with a basket on her head, filled with glass bangles (Churies was the Indian word for bangles) and she had a wonderful knack of getting the smallest possible bangles over one's wrist. Suddenly, one of the girls noticed that the curtains were alight and immediately there was a great hue and cry until the flames had been extinguished and it was then that Barney's little trick was discovered for which he was soundly thrashed. Barney always seemed to be getting thrashed and it used to break my heart so that in the end, I took to saying I had done something or other which in fact he had, in order to save him from the beatings. I was never beaten, being the youngest, smallest and everybody's darling.

Elizabeth James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Dehra Dun 1939
(source: page 12-13 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi: Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))

 

 

 

 

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