Accommodation
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Introduction
The Calcutta
of the 1940s was a much more crowded city than it had ever been. The war
brought many more workers for the war industries as well as hundreds of
thousands of soldiers from all over the world. Many building such as schools,
museums, and hotels were requisitioned to house them. The political turmoils as well as the famine further brought vast
numbers of refugees to the city. How
and Where did they all find somewhere to stay? And what where housing
conditions like for those already there, living in anything from huts on
pavements to aristocratic palaces ?
_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
Where to live in Calcutta
On Coming to take up my new post in Calcutta
I was confronted with several options as to residence. There were no official residences
for the ever-changing personnel of Government. Instead we enjoyed a generous Calcutta
Allowance. For a young bachelor like myself, the normal choice was between (a)
living rather expensively at the United Services Club, (b) going into a
chummery with colleagues, or (c) being a paying guest with a senior official
who had a wife with him. I relished none of these options. The United Services
Club was a dreary morgue of old men dozing in leather chairs but still holding
tenaciously onto the latest periodicals from England.
Prom time to time this boredom was disrupted by the noisy incursion of young
civilians or police up for the weekend from the Mofussil. Meanwhile in the
background regiments of white-coated bearers hovered and floated like bored ghosts.
The argument against joining a chummery was that I did not have any special
chums in Calcutta
and those whom I did know were only drinking pals. Still less did I relish the
idea of playing a gigolo role to the bored wife of some official.
Micheal
Carritt, ICS officer. Calcutta,
1930s.
(source:
Micheal Carritt: A Mole in the Crown. New
Delhi: Rupa 1986)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with
Micheal Carritt )
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_____Pictures of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
Finding a house
Must have house cannot possibly refuse simply gorgeous golf and bridge
for you implore on bended knees jane
Malcolm
Moncrieff Stuart, I.C.S. (Indian Civil Service) District Magistrate 24 Parganas,
Calcutta, 1940s
(source: personal
scrapbook kept by Malcolm Moncrieff Stuart
O.B.E., I.C.S. seen on
20-Dec-2005 / Reproduced by courtesy of
Mrs. Malcolm Moncrieff Stuart)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in
Calcutta
I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta
during World War II. My family consisted of my mother, father and three
daughters, I was the eldest daughter. My brother had not been born yet. We
lived in an apartment block in Mission Row, not far from Dalhousie
Square — the spot where the “Black Hole of Calcutta”
was supposed to have taken place — though Indian historians deny this episode.
My neighbours consisted of a Chinese family who
had trekked from Burma, an Anglo-Indian family - Mr and Mrs Carter, a
Portuguese family — Mr and Mrs Coelho and their 4 sons, and 2 Baghdad Jewish
families — the Nahoums and the Manassehs.
My family lived on the top floor and from our
veranda (whose doors and windows had been plastered with black and brown paper,
as protection from broken glass during the air raid), I could see the steeple
and weather cock of St Andrews Church, and in the background Howrah Bridge, the
life-line of Calcutta connecting the 2 sides of the mighty Hooghly River.
Katyun Randhawa, a young Indian (Parsi) girl, Calcutta,
1942-3
(source: A5756150
The bombing of Calcutta
by the Japanese Edited at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct
2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
We had a
large house
[…]
Megna Mills compound - our home- We had a large house consisting of a
'Hal Camera', a ’Khana Camera', three
'Palan Cameras', two 'Goosle
Cameras', a 'Bottle Khana’, a
'Borchi Khana', a large front verandah and a long narrow back verandah.
Kenneth
Miln, son of a ‘jute wallah’. Jagatdal/Calcutta, 1945-49
(source: Letter sent to us by Mr Kenneth Miln himself, July 2006 /
Reproduced by courtesy of Kenneth Miln)
Ranchi Lake
Our house was a seven-roomed bungalow in an L-shape
in Old Commissioners' Compound which was just near the Ranchi
Lake. The Ranchi
Lake was something of a
mystery. There were so many legends and superstitions surrounding it such as
the one which said it claimed a life every year - that most people steered
clear of it. My bother Barney got an unmerciful caning because he'd been caught
swimming in the Ranchi
Lake. It was an enormous
lake and parts of it were covered so thickly with water lilies that one could
quite easily have stepped into it
without realising there was water there.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 14 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
she was virtually on her own when she went
up there
We had a terrace, as the roof of the house was
called and my Aunt had a room built for herself which was her bedroom which I
shared with her. There was a bathroom built adjoining this so she was virtually
on her own when she went up there.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 15 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
A Fairy Tale bed
She had an enormous four poster bed. It had been
shipped over from England
and it had two huge mattresses, which always reminded me of the fairy story of
the Princess and the Pea. The combined height of the bed with the mattresses
was so great that I couldn't even climb on to it. I had to get on a chair and
then climb on the bed. Oh how I loved this bed and used to he dreaming and
imagining all sorts of wonderful things which came alive from the story books which
I read. From a very young age I was an avid reader and read great volumes of
Hans Christian Anderson, The Brothers Grimm and anything literally that I could
lay my hands on.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 15-16 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004/ Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
They were so house proud
I have vivid memories of their home. It was
crammed with ornaments and little incidental tables in heavily carved wood.
They were so house proud - Burra Aunty would plump up the cushions as soon as
one rose from a chair. The chairs were always covered with Anti-Macassars and
[…]
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Darjeeling, 1947
(source:
page 37-38 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
Aunty Dolly was
very house proud
Aunty Dolly was very
house proud and the dining room was graced by an enormous and very beautiful
table which seated about sixteen people. She had a piece of glass cut to fit the top so that the polish would not be spoiled
and when she gave dinner parties, this table would be laid with an array of
silver, with a splendid epergne in the centre. We used to watch the Bearer and
his assistant setting the table, starched serviettes rolled into mock
candlesticks and set into the glasses. Or sometimes lotus flowers made from the
serviettes placed on the plates. Her crockery too was wonderful, much of it
having been handed down to her by her grandmother who had brought it all when
she came from England.
We had a piano too, which had also come from England.
My great-grandmother died just after Marie was born, so we had never actually
known her although I always felt I did. I heard so much about her from Aunty
Dolly who always referred to her as "Mamma".
The sitting room or
"Drawing Room" as she called it, was carpeted with lush Persian
carpet and all the furniture shone so that one could see one's reflection in
it.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source:
page 18 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
The girls were
all taught to be chatelaines of the old type
The girls in our
family were all taught to be chatelaines of the old type. To learn to sew a fine
seam and keep a fine table and keep detailed household accounts - a habit which
I still have. We embroidered all the linen ourselves. The sheets were all done
with drawn thread borders and monograms. The towels too were all monogrammed.
We also did lots of needlework and cross stitch for the local church fetes.
Since Aunty Dolly and I were Church of England and the rest Roman Catholic -
this was the gain of both churches since we patronised them both and did work
for both.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi, mid 1940s
(source:
page 18 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
Uncle had gone
This [death of her
grandfather] was not the only change to which I returned after my nine months
in Darjeeling.
The house in Ranchi had been sold and the whole
family were in two rooms in Calcutta.
My Uncle had gone, he said to safeguard his father's estates in the Punjab
but he never came back and after partition I do not think it was possible for
him to come back in the terrible days of rioting and killing which followed.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Calcutta, 1947
(source:
page 40-41 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
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top
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in
Calcutta
I was a young Indian (Parsi) girl living in Calcutta
during World War II. My family consisted of my mother, father and three
daughters, I was the eldest daughter. My brother had not been born yet. We
lived in an apartment block in Mission Row, not far from Dalhousie
Square — the spot where the “Black Hole of Calcutta”
was supposed to have taken place — though Indian historians deny this episode.
My neighbours consisted of a Chinese family who
had trekked from Burma, an Anglo-Indian family - Mr and Mrs Carter, a
Portuguese family — Mr and Mrs Coelho and their 4 sons, and 2 Baghdad Jewish
families — the Nahoums and the Manassehs.
My family lived on the top floor and from our
veranda (whose doors and windows had been plastered with black and brown paper,
as protection from broken glass during the air raid), I could see the steeple
and weather cock of St Andrews Church, and in the background Howrah Bridge, the
life-line of Calcutta connecting the 2 sides of the mighty Hooghly River.
Katyun Randhawa, a young Indian (Parsi) girl, Calcutta,
1942-3
(source: A5756150
The bombing of Calcutta
by the Japanese Edited at BBC WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct
2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Grandfather’s new house at 6, Lower
Circular Road
When
we entered grandfather’s new house at 6, Lower
Circular Road on April 1, 1941, the street was
purely residential with a sprinkling of shops opposite Karnani Estate. The bus
service along this route was a wispy one. The buses were regular but never
spoilt the peace of the locality. An Anglo-Indian family lived almost opposite
us. One of the girls, Esme Tennent, was devastatingly attractive and became one
of the nurses looking after aunt later on that year when she contracted
typhoid.
Samir
Mukerjee. Calcutta,
1941
(source:
Samir Mukerjee: Keep the faith & the friends. The Telegraph: 31Oct2003)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Samir Mukerjee)
Moving out to Marquis Street
A few days after the contretemps with me - my
father found a job with Uberoi's the firm who had originally employed my Uncle as
a travelling salesman and he found some accommodation and came and took Aunty
Dolly and Stephen and me away from Mazda Mansions leaving Wahid alone with my
two sisters who said they did not want to leave.
Marquis Sheet - the place we went to live in was
something you read about but cannot believe unless you have seen it. It was in
what is known in India
as a Bustee. Here you would call it a slum and in America
you would call it a Ghetto. There were all sorts of people-there were Anglo
Indians, there were South Indians - there were mostly people who for one reason
or other had fallen foul of their families and had nowhere else to go. There
was a Brahmin (the highest caste of Hindu). I never found out why he was in
that place. There was a South Indian girl called Pippa who was married to a
Sindi man and they were ostracised because Sindis are never allowed to marry
outside their own community. They are very-sortof-in house. They had this
little place and he used to make Indian sweets and also wholesaled tea so he
gave us tea for free. She was so good to us because we were literally penniless
sometimes and she used to bring us food. They were vegetarians but it was very
nice food when she did bring it. She would sit for hours and talk to us and the
great heartbreak of her life was that she had been unable to give her husband a
child and she tried everything. This made her doubly a failure in her own eyes
and in the eyes of his people who looked on it as God's visitation on him
because he had broken their law and married a girl from outside the community.
The Landlord was a Sindi and he openly boasted
that as far as he was concerned business came before even his mother and you
paid your rent or else you were out. That was it. It was a dreadful place. We
had to share a bathroom which was absolutely appalling.
There was running water only a couple of hours
per day and we had fill up containers with water when it was flowing. Of course
there was no hot water so cold water baths were the thing.
It was a dreadful place and I can remember one
night waking up to find that the sheet was absolutely a mass of cockroaches.
Somebody had fumigated their house and because this area was so open these
cockroaches had flown off from there and just invaded us en masse. Never before
had I seen and I hope never again to see anything like it. I was absolutely
terrified as were we all. Can you imagine waking up in the middle of the night
and finding your sheet one mass of brown crawling cockroaches - like something
out of a horror film.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. La
Martiniere for Girls, Calcutta,
1947
(source:
page 46-47 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
Barrackpore - or part of it - had done its
best to give the feel of England
May 1942
Less than two weeks
after arrival, I and many others, were moved again to Barrackpore, about 20
miles away where a new Air H.Q was being formed. 3rd Tactical Air Force HQ it
started as, but it changed its name a few times during my stay. I was to spend
about two years in Barrackpore,[…]
Barrackpore, was the
place where I spent most of my time. On the grand trunk road from Calcutta
and on the main railway line from Calcutta to
the east and north of India,
it was situated on the River Hooghly, a tributary of the Ganges.
It consisted of a
Railway station, a barracks, a cantonment, the Governor of Bengal’s
residence and grounds and a native village. It had the river on one side, the
railway on another and on the other two sides, jungle. The road from the
station became just a dirt path as it neared the village, about a mile away.
[…]
Barrackpore wasn't
really a bad place to be, as India
goes. It had atmosphere. After a few days in tents we moved into the huge three
story barrack blocks where we were as comfortable as expected. […]
No matter how hard you
try, India
takes over. Barrackpore - or part of it - had done its best to give the feel of
England.
It had the Governor's house and grounds, two crescents of beautiful bungalows
and gardens mostly occupied by white Britishers and some wealthy Bengalis. It
had an Anglican church and a Methodist chapel. During the daytime you can
almost pretend that it is a little bit of England
- even if it means ignoring a lot - but come nightfall and you are in no doubt
whatsoever that you are in Bengal,
India. Indian
music live and from radios, sounds and smells from the jungle and bazaars. The
large brilliant moon, rickshaws, the distant sound of the train - an Indian
train - and all sorts of rustlings and noises on the edges of the road.
Eventually I came to terms with it and indeed loved India
best in the atmospheric moonlight with the characteristic smells and noises. To
start with, we felt like intruders and overwhelmed by India.
Harry Tweedale, RAF
Signals Section,
Barrackpore,May/June 1942
(source: A6665457 TWEEDALE's WAR Part 11 Pages
85-92 at BBC WW2 People's War'
on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Entally
I was born
and lived the 20 years of my life before leaving India, in Entally, a small
area east of Lower Circular Road best
known for its Loreto Convent and for its market of the same name where a
sausage of legendary taste was produced.
Mike
Devery, schoolboy. Calcutta,
1940s
(source:
Internet communications September 2004)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Mike Devery)
Khaleeli Manzil
There
were also the Khaleelis ensconced in their comfortable mansion, Khaleeli
Manzil. We got to know them well and the large family had tea and dinner with
us a number of times. Mrs Khaleeli was covered from head to foot in the
traditional chaadar. To brighten our teas she used to send us a Persian sweet
called ranganak, with dates and walnuts, which was simply scrumptious. It had
an exotic smoky flavour that I always imagined came from oriental markets in Cairo
or Rabat.
Habib
Khaleeli became our friend and turned out to be a born entertainer with his
quips and exaggerations. I felt drawn to one of the sisters, Tuba, who was
quiet and demure and blessed with a velvety voice. Every time I went to visit
the Khaleelis right opposite our house, I used to look out for Tuba who often
withdrew into her room and left me sorely disappointed.
Sometimes
from their drawing room came the sound of Middle-Eastern music, wavering,
sensuous, products of a culture where incense left its aroma on tangible
objects and in the air. It only heightened my sense of mystery. Much later when
we had all taken charge of our lives and had scattered in different parts of
the world, Tuba went to Pakistan
and married Sahibzada Yaqub Khan who was the foreign minister and a member of
the aristocracy.
Khaleeli
Manzil still stands, weathered by the Indian wind and rain. Habib Khaleeli
lives there alone and is hardly in circulation. When I look at the house now, I
think of the gaiety and merriment of a large, united family that I had the
privilege of seeing during my impressionable years.
Samir
Mukerjee. Schoolboy. Calcutta,
August 1946
(source:
Samir Mukerjee: Keep the faith & the friends. The Telegraph: 31Oct2003)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Samir Mukerjee)
We could look into the households in the
slum from our third floor apartment windows
My father was a secretary of Calcutta
YMCA and we stayed in a YMCA campus that had enormous lawns. Right in front of
the building was a slum of poor non-Bengali Muslims from UP and Bihar, part of
the large immigrant work force that kept the Bengali city alive. Everyone used
to call them upcountry Muslims then. We could look into the households in the
slum from our third floor apartment windows and see housewives cooking their
meals and children playing. Beyond the slum were a couple of lower-middle and
middle-middle class Bengali Hindu localities and, beyond them, another large
slum of upcountry Muslims, Raja Bazaar. But unlike the next-door slum – modest,
nameless – that slum was notorious as a den of criminals. In our slum, we used
to know many of the residents by face. Some of the welfare work of the YMCA was
meant for them and that also made them obsequious and friendly.
Ashis
Nandy. Schoolboy, Calcutta,
1946
(source pages2
of Ashis Nandy: “Death of an Empire” in Persimmon. Asian Literature,
Arts and Culture (Volume III, Number 1, New York, Spring 200r also www.sarai.net/journal/02PDF/03morphologies/
04death_empire.pdf pp 14-20 Sarai
Reader 2002: The Cities of Everyday Life.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with Ashis Nandy)
Col. Berkeley Hill
In Ranchi
we had many friends. One of these was a Col. Berkeley Hill - a doctor who was a
pioneer in the treatment of mad people to enable them to return to normal life.
He wrote several books one of which was called ‘All Too Human’ about his
children. He married a Madrassi woman who had been a patient of his. He himself
was Welsh and sent his children (three boys, Sam, Owen and John and two girls,
Rosalind and Margaret) to England
to be educated. He advocated making children responsible at a young age and
used to give them the money to pay their passage and school fees. He said he
was not disappointed in any of them as they all learned to look after
themselves. He died suddenly, of a heart attack and we went to the funeral.
He had a vast estate in Tatasilvai a village
outside Ranchi which was again like an English
country estate transplanted to India.
In his will he decreed that everything - down to the last spoon had to be sold
and the proceeds divided equally amongst his surviving children. Owen had been
killed in active service so this left John, Sam and the two girls who were
nurses. His widow suffered a relapse after his death and I did not see her
again but John was very enamoured of Ida and used to send her huge boquets of
flowers and baskets of fruit However, she would have none of him being besotted
with Wahid.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 23-24 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
Phyllis Day
Another family we knew were the Days. Phyllis
Day was an Anglo-Indian girl married to a Bengali man. This was very unusual, High
caste Hindu families were very opposed to mixed marriages but even more so when
the girt was "Half-caste". They had a huge house on the outskirts of Ranchi
and we often visited them. There were many children - I cannot remember all of
them, I was much younger and spent most of my time with Stephen when we went to
their house. The last we heard of this family was that Phyllis had killed her
husband. The details were never made public but this was years later when we
were living in Calcutta
and of course, people did not discuss things in front of the children.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 24 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
The D’Silvas
My brother Stephen and I had a private tutor,
Mrs D'Silva, who lived in a large house off the main road- She was the wife of
Reginald D'Silva whose family owned large chunks of land in Ranchi.
They had only one child, a girl called Neelia, whose name was Mrs D'Silva's
name spelt backwards • Aileen - and Uncle Reg as I always called him, used to
say I, was his other daughter, I kept in touch with them for years, ever after,
until I eventually left India.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Ranchi,
mid 1940s
(source:
page 25 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
The
Palace
_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Government House, very centrally situated at the
northern end of the Calcutta Maidan, is the most
magnificent residential building in Calcutta.
It was erected as a result of representations made by the Marquess of
Wellesley, Governor-General (1798-1805), that the then existing Government
House was not appropriate to the dignity and prestige of the Governor-General of
India.
Designed by Captain Wyatt of the Corps of
Engineers, the foundation stone was laid on the 5th February, 1799, and the
building, erected at a cost of about Rs. 20 lakhs, formally opened and occupied
by the Marquess of Wellesley on the 27th January 1803, with a Ball given
in honour of the signing of the Treaty of Amiens.
The palace, consisting of the main building
surmounted by a majestic silvery dome and four corner blocks, is almost a
replica of Kedleston Hall, Lord Curzon's ancestral home in Derbyshire. It
stands in the centre of an artistically laid-out park covering about six acres,
and was the residence of the Viceroys of India
till 1912, when, on the transfer of the Imperial capital to Delhi,
it became the residence of the Governors of Bengal.
There are six gates to the building; the design
of the two eastern and the two western ones attracting special attention, each
being surmounted by a stone lion with a forepaw resting on a globe. The main
gate is to the north, where the Visitors' Book is kept.
When the Governor is in residence, mounted
sowars of his Bodyguard are on duty at the southern entrance, after the style
of the Horseguards at Whitehall. -
A magnificent flight of steps leads to the State
Room, used only on State and Ceremonial occasions. The main entrance is through
a handsome portico, supported by lofty classical columns and surmounted by the
Royal Coat of Arms. The Throne Room, where the Throne of Tipu Sultan is still
preserved, and the Grand Marble Hall are on the first floor ; the Ball Room. is
on the floor above.
The Palace abounds with objects of art, many of
which are of historic interest.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 57-58 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
Admission to the grounds only :—Free; open daily from sunrise to sunset.
Trams :—Kidderpore, Alipore, Behala.
Buses .—Nos. 3, 3A, 12, 12B.
This
palatial building, in the Italian Renaissance style of architecture, set in an
extensive park at Alipore, was the official residence of the
Lieutenant-Governors of Bengal from 1854 to
1912. On the transfer of the Imperial capital from Calcutta
to Delhi in 1912, Government House at Esplanade,
hitherto the residence of the Viceroys, became the residence of the Governors
of Bengal, Belvedere being reserved for the use of Viceroys on their visits to Calcutta.
The main
entrance to Belvedere is on the north, from under a lofty gateway surmounted by
a carved figure of a vigilant tiger. The drive sweeps round smooth lawns to a
flight of steps guarded by two brass cannons, which were cast at Cossipore and
bear the arms of the East India Company. The facade is adorned with the Royal
Coat of Arms and supported by a double row of Ionic pillars crowned by Doric
capitals.
On
ceremonial occasions, when the gorgeously uniformed Viceroy's Bodyguard line
the drive and the steps, and when Indian ladies in richly brocaded saris, and
Indian gentlemen in their gay national costumes, mingle with the European
guests, Belvedere and its surrounding lawns are a magnificent setting to a
distinguished gathering.
Curiously
enough, the origin and early owners of this magnificent building are lost in
antiquity, Prince Azim-us-Khan being generally accepted as having built it in
1700. In 1780 however, Warren Hastings is recorded as having sold Belvedere to
Major Tolly, constructor of Tolly's Nullah : Tolly, after residing there for
some years, leased it to W. A. Brooke and on Tolly's death in 1802, it was put
up for auction and passed through several hands before it was finally purchased
in 1854, for the residence of the Lieutenant-Governors of Bengal, on the
recommendation of Lord Dalhousie.
Since
then it has been enlarged and improved upon by successive Lieutenant-Governors.
Sir W. Gray, Lieutenant-Governor, 1867-1871, added the verandah on the east
side and reconstructed the west wing. Sir A. Eden, Lieutenant-Governor,
1877-1882, built the whole of the centre main facade and added a wooden
flooring to the central ballroom. Sir
S. Bayley, Lieutenant-Governor, 1887-1890, constructed the glazed dining room
on the north-east side, while Sir C. Elliot, Lieutenant-Governor, 1891-1895,
had the rooms on the upper storey of the west wing built, and substituted an
archway for the door leading from the main staircase to the drawing room.
Further improvements, including the construction of a racket court and swimming
pools, were made by Lord Willingdon, Viceroy, 1930-1935.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 49-51 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
Galstaun Park
Alongside runs Camac
Street, and facing Camac
Street is Galstaun Park, the most magnificent
private building in Calcutta;
it stands in the midst of spacious grounds, beautifully laid-out with wide
lawns, gorgeous flower-beds and a miniature lake.
During the Great War Mr. Galstaun very
generously placed this commodious building at the disposal of the military authorities,
to be used as a temporary hospital for British soldiers, and it was in this
palatial building that Mr. Galstaun, in December 1921, received as his guest H.
R. H. the Prince of Wales, afterwards King Edward VIII. Mr. Galstaun always
very willingly lent his Park for open-air functions and allowed the general
public free access to the grounds and swimming pool. The Park is now the Calcutta
residence of H. E. H. the Nizam of Hyderabad.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source pages
125 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
City of Palaces
[going east on Ballygunge
Circular Road]; on the left is Tripura House, the palatial residence of the Maharajah of
Tripura: facing Tripura House is Dover
Road.
(source pages 92 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
[…] while at the corner of Middleton Street and
Chowringhee Road stands Darbhanga House, the town residence of the Maharajah of
Darbhanga, adorned with a handsome illuminated clock tower: […]
(source pages 121-123 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
Immediately on the right, at No. 2 [Judge's
Court Road], is Bejay Manzil, the Calcutta
residence of the Maharajah ofBurdwan; alongside is New
Road, leading to Burdwan
Road. At the corner of New
Road and Judge's Court Road is the South Telephone Exchange,
and a few yards farther on, the crossing of Alipore
Road. […]
(source pages 153 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
At the corner of Alipore Road and Sterndale Road
is the palace of the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and a little higher up (left),
the Royal Agri-Horticultural Gardens; […]
(source pages 153 of John Barry: “Calcutta
1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
Pursuing our way along the main thoroughfare [Park
Street past Wood Street], we have on the left the
town residence of the Nawab of Murshidabad; next, at No. 87 A, […]
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 87-91 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
Life at Woodlands
[…] but soon we left for Calcutta.
It was that winter that I really came to appreciate our house there and the
life it contained. "Woodlands" was very much the "third"
house in Calcutta,
surpassed in status only by "Belvedere," as the Viceregal Lodge was
called, and Government House. It was a large white stucco building constructed
by the colonial British in the classical East India Company style, with Ionic
columns flanking the deep verandas that encircled the house, airy sash-windows,
and gracious well-proportioned rooms. At one time the sons of Tipu Sultan, the
ruler of Mysore
who rebelled against the British and was killed in 1799, were imprisoned there,
and they were still said to haunt the rooms. One summer we kept hearing strange
sounds on the roof at night, and when no one in the family or on the staff
could account for the noises, Ma summoned an exorcist. He turned out to be a
most improbable little man wearing a solar topee and bustling efficiently
about, but whatever his counter-magic was, it worked, and we heard nothing more
of the ghosts.
My Cooch Behar grandfather
had bought "Woodlands" from the British about a hundred years after
the time of Tipu Sultan and had quickly transformed it into one of the social
centres of Calcutta,
a tradition that Ma, needless to say, continued magnificently.
"Woodlands" was in a residential area of Calcutta,
set in such a large garden that no other buildings were visible from the house.
As soon as you drove through the great iron gates with the Cooch
Behar crest emblazoned on them, and up the red gravel
drive, you were surrounded by tall spreading trees and thickets of ornamental
shrubs and bushes. There were beautifully kept flower-beds, too, with every
kind of tropical flower: jasmine, frangipani, roses, poinsettias, and baku,
a white star-shaped blossom with a strong scent. Within the grounds there were
also a cricket pitch, a riding track, and two tennis-courts.
Behind the main house were the staff quarters and the
stables. We kept about six ponies for us children, three or four horses for Ma,
and a dozen more for any guests and the ADCs. In the garages Mr. Davidson, our
English chauffeur, presided over a collection of motorcars ranging from Ma's
latest sedan to some elderly sportscars that had belonged to my father. Mr.
Davidson was reputed to have been the first man to drive a car in Calcutta,
and I spent entrancing days talking to him in the garages. His daughter was a
great friend of mine and, also, his house was a gathering-place for jockeys, so
his advice about horses during the racing season was marvellously sound. I
became a very knowledgeable purveyor of Mr. Davidson's racing tips to Ma's
guests. The first of them to listen to me on the subject was the Viceroy's son,
Lord Rattendon, who excused himself from lunch one day, telling Ma that he was
off to place a bet on a horse called Royal Air Force that I had assured him
would win the Viceroy's Cup that afternoon. Ma protested that I couldn't
possibly know anything about the matter, but Lord Rattendon very sensibly
followed my advice. Sure enough, that afternoon Royal Air Force came in first,
and Ma was most impressed.
Inside "Woodlands," Ma had given her imagination
full rein and had decorated each room in a different style. The scheme for the
drawing-room was dictated by a beautiful Chinese screen made of wood and
encrusted with jade and rose quartz, while others were French or English or
Italian. Her own room was the most oriental in the house, filled with divans
and Persian rugs and dominated by the fabulous carved ivory bed, with its great
elephant tusks sticking dangerously out of the legs, which is now in the family
museum in Baroda.
However, the centre of the social life at "Woodlands" was the wide
veranda overlooking the lawn where Ma liked to gather her guests and family
around her. I think it was the first place in Calcutta
ever to be furnished in the new style of the 1930s. At the time it was
considered very up-to-date and unusual, with modern glass-topped tables and all
the furniture very square and chunky-looking (though comfortable). We were very
proud of it. Oddly enough, it seemed to blend perfectly with the formal
drawing-room next door.
"Woodlands" was always full of people. Whenever
we were in India we spent
the Christmas season there, an especially important time because the Viceroy
always came down from Delhi
for a couple of weeks. As there usually wasn't enough room in the house for all
our guests, some were accommodated in tents set up in the garden. In my
childhood. Lord Willingdon was the Viceroy, and there was a constant coming and
going between "Woodlands" and "Belvedere" when he was in
residence. One of my most uncomfortable memories is of a garden-party at
"Woodlands" held in a huge marquee on the lawn, when Menaka and I had
to dance for Lady Willingdon. Dancing by itself was bad enough, but, worse, at
the end of our performance we had to present her with flowers. She had a
wellknown fondness for the colour mauve, but, as a result of some muddle, the
servants gave me a bunch of red roses to present to her, while Menaka got the
mauve sweet-peas to give to the Governor's wife. I shall never forget my agony
of embarrassment when I heard Lady Willingdon's voice above me, saying firmly,
"No, dear, I don't think these can be for me."
Theoretically, viceregal entertaining demanded perfection,
but in practice attempting to reach such an unattainable standard invited
disaster, and at "Woodlands" there always seemed to be some minor
mishap. The most inexplicable and infuriating to Ma was a menu for a special
dinner-party. After she had spent days planning it, the menu was finally
printed in French, on handsome cards with the Cooch
Behar crest at the top. But on the night of the dinner,
Ma's Russian chef, who had earlier been a lieutenant in the czar's army,
produced a sumptuous meal, not a single course of which corresponded to the
printed menu. I don't think anyone minded except Ma, but she was certainly most
put out.
Of all the many people who came to "Woodlands," a
few stand out in my memory: the Maharaja of Kashmir, who always came for the
races and sometimes stabled his horses there; Prince Aly Khan, who, like Ma's
other Muslim friends, was intrigued by my Muslim name; and the specially
thrilling Douglas Fairbanks, Sr., the great swashbuckling film star. I remember
that he was expected at "Woodlands" in the early evening, and for two
days beforehand I was in a silent turmoil dreading that he would be late and I
should be sent to bed before he arrived. When the evening came, this dismal
prospect seemed increasingly likely as the minutes passed, but mercifully I was
reprieved. He had, it turned out, been caught by fans at the Howrah Bridge,
then—as now—the only bridge over the Hooghly River, which flows through
Calcutta. When he finally got to "Woodlands" at eleven o'clock, all
his buttons had been torn off as souvenirs. I did meet him, and he was
immensely charming. He gave each of us a signed photograph of himself. Mine was
inscribed, "Remember the 23rd of May," and I could hardly believe the
wonderful coincidence that he and I shared a birthday. I still have the
photograph. Later he came to Cooch
Behar on a shoot and I had an even more unexpected bit
of luck. My nose had started to bleed—probably from overexcitement—and Douglas
Fairbanks looked after me and put a key down my back to stop the bleeding.
But in the eyes of Ila, Menaka, and me, the most glamorous
visitor of all was the Maharaja of Jaipur, who came to stay with us during the
Christmas holidays of 1931, when I was twelve.
Gayatri
Devi, princess of Cooch Behar.
Calcutta,
1930s.
(source:
pp. 87-90 Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A
Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia
& New York:
J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).
The end of the old Woodlands
The last big celebration we ever held at
"Woodlands" was on the occasion of Indrajit's engagement to the
Princess of Pithapuram. With the fall of Singapore
to the Japanese in February, the war suddenly moved much closer to India.
"Woodlands" was converted into a hospital, and Ma and Bhaiya moved
into the chauffeur's quarters when they were in Calcutta.
But Bhaiya had to spend most of his time in Cooch
Behar, as it was quite close to the war zone. A huge
American army base had been installed there, and the famous Burma Road went
through Cooch Behar;
together they transformed the sleepy little town into a bustling international
centre which came to be known as "the G.I.'s Shangri-la." After the
war we thought we might move back to "Woodlands," but by then too
much had changed and too much was happening in India.
The country was on the verge of gaining its independence, the princely states
were contemplating their merger with the Indian Union,
and, more specifically, "Woodlands" was sadly run down. Bhaiya sold
the land, and today there are many houses and a nursing home where we once used
to live. Somehow it pleases me that the whole area is still known as Woodlands.
Gayatri
Devi, Maharani of Jaipur. Calcutta,
1942.
(source: p. 187
Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the
Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia & New
York: J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by
courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).
What remains of the palaces
The palace in Cooch
Behar is fast disintegrating from neglect, but there
are plans to remodel it as a medical school and teaching hospital.
"Woodlands" remains only as a name in Calcutta
and I no longer have any occasion to visit "Colinton," our house in Darjeeling.
Gayatri
Devi, Maharani of Jaipur. Calcutta,
1970s.
(source: Gayatri Devi / Santha Rama Rau: “A
Princess Remembers. The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur”. Philadelphia
& New York:
J.B. Lippincott Company. 1976 / Reproduced by courtesy of Santha Rama Rau).
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
Coolies in front of Marble Palace
In contrast to the magnificent palace in
background, two sweating coolies strain at a load of precious firewood. The building is known as the Marble palace,
contains a rich collections of paintings, lavishly furnished. it belongs to a Bengali family who are
alleged to feed hundreds of poor daily.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Mysore House
and across Tollygunge Bridge, on the right, is
"Mysore House", the historical palace built by Prince Golam Mohammed,
son of Tippu Sultan : on the upper floor are a number of old portraits, paintings
and manuscripts; conspicuous among them is a painting entitled "The
Departure of the Sons of Tippu Sultan from the Zenana".
Returning to Russa Road and pursuing our way, we
have on the left the well-known Shahi Mosque, built in 1843 by the same Prince
Golam Mohammed; by the side of the mosque runs Prince Anwar Shah Road leading
to Gariahat Road. In Prince Anwar
Shah Road are the two famous palaces, built by the
sons of Tippu Sultan, namely, the "Khas Mahal", now converted into
the Shree Bharat Lakshmi Film Studio and the "Nautch Koti", now
occupied by the Tollygunge
High English
School. A little way along
Russa Road
we come to Prince Golam Mohammed Charitable Dispensary, founded in 1873,
alongside which is the approach road of the newly-constructed Christian
Cemetery. This cemetery
will, from 1940, replace the present Christian Burial Grounds in Lower
Circular Road, which have been in use since 1840.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 166 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Galstaun Mansion
At the
corner of Park Street
and Russell Street
stands that imposing building, Galstaun
Mansion, having the distinction of
being the largest mansion in Calcutta.
It was built for Mr. J. C. Galstaun, landholder, merchant and well-known
sportsman. Designed by Martin & Co. the foundation stone was laid in 1920
and the structure, of modern architecture, completed in 1923 at a cost of Rs.
65 lakhs. The upper floors are let as
residential flats, while the ground floor is occupied by business houses,
including the Imperial Bank of India
(Park Street
Branch). It has a large frontage on both Park and Russell Streets, and from its
roof splendid views of Calcutta
and the river beyond can be obtained.
The
southern wing of this mansion covers the site of the house built by Chief
Justice Sir Henry Russell in about 1798; it was in this house that the
beautiful Rose Alymer died on the 2nd March 1800, at the tender age of twenty.
She was buried in the South
Park Street
Cemetery, and is
immortalised in the following verses by that strange genius, Walter Savage
Landor :
"Ah,
what avails the sceptred race?
Ah, what
the form divine?
What
every virtue, every grace?
Rose Alymer,
all were thine.
Rose
Alymer, whom these wakeful eyes
May
weep, but never see,
A night
of memories and sighs
I
consecrate to thee."
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 87 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
Alexandra
Court—60/1 Chowringhee Road. Phone, P.K. 162.
Amolia Chamber—79
Wellesley Street-
Amolia Mansions—10 Wellesley Square.
Auckland Mansions—6/7 Lower Circular Road.
Auddytia
Mansion—33A Doctor Lane.
Avenue Court—24 Syed Amir All Avenue.
Avenue House—Chowringhee Square.
Beed
Mansion—7 Central Avenue.
Bejoy
Mansion—89 Ripon Street.
Birla
Mansion—54 Chowringhee Road.
Brabourne
Court—6 Chowringhee Lane.
Buckingham
Court—113A Ripon Street.
Central Court—2 Chittaranjan Avenue.
Chowringhee
Court—3 & 4 Chowringhee Lane.
Chowringhee Mansions—30
Chowringhee Road. Phone, Cal. 672.
Cohen Mansions— 14 Ripon Lane.
Coronation Court—West Range, Park Circus.
Crescent Court—39B Lower Circular Road.
Daw
Building—184 Dharamcala Street.
Dharamtala
Mansion —32 Dharamtala Street.
Durga Chamber—114 Lower Range, Park
Circus.
Elgin
Mansion—133 Dharsinitata Street.
Emerald Court—178 Lower Circular Road.
Esplanade Mansions—14 Government Place
East.
Ezra
Mansion—10 Government Place East.
Florence
Mansion—15 Free School
Street.
Forbes
Mansion—10 Wellington Square.
Fountain Court—3 Middleton Street. Phone,
Cal. 2204.
Galstaun Mansions—12 Park Street.
Grosvenor House—21 Old Court House
Street.
Halwasiya Mansions—62/2 Moira
Street.
Harrington
Mansion—8 Harrington Street.
Jiwan Mansions—11 Middleton Row.
Jubilee Court—11 Harrlngton Street.
Jubilee
Park—4B Little Russel Street.
Karananj Mansions—Kunction of Park
Street and Free School St.
King
Edward Court—58 Chowringhee Road.
King's Chambers—40 McLeod Street.
King's Court—50 Theatre Road.
Lansdowne
Mansion—89B Lansdowne Road.
Lee
Court—36 Elgin Road.
Lindle Chambers—6A Hastings Street.
Lindsay
Mansion—14 Lindsay Street.
Loudon
Court—13 Loudon Street.
Marina
Garden Court—191 Park Street New. Phone, P.K.
612.
Marquis
Mansion—17 Marquis Lane.
Middleton Mansions—9 Middleton- Street.
Minto
Mansion—77 Dharamtala Street.
Mission
Court—P12 Mission Row Extension.
Mohini
Mansion—94 Russa Road.
Palace Court—1 Kyd Street.
Park Chambers -93
Park Street.
Park
Court—2 Syed Amir All Avenue. Phone, P.K.
1193.
Park House—6 Park Lane.
Park
Mansion—Junction of Park Street and Free School Street.
Park
Palace-1 Saharwady Avenue.
Paul
Mansion—5 & 6 Bishop Lefroy Road.
Prince Court— 47 New Theatre Road.
Phone, P.K. 1591.
Prince
Mansion—10 Middleton Row.
Prince
Mansion—5B Sandel Street.
Queen's Chambers—31
Marquis Street.
Queen's Court—20
McLeod Street.
Roy
Mansion—10/ 4 Elgin Road.
Royal Chambers—Moira Street.
Royal Court—5/1 Russell Street.
Samavaya
Mansion— 6 Hogg Street.
Shama
Mansion—1 Mati Sil Street.
Siddiq
Mansion—Park
Street New ( P233 Park Circus). Phone, P.K-
1006.
Solomon
Mansion—7 Royd Street.
Sree
Nath Mansion—8/1 Lindsay Street.
Stephen Chamber—26 Chowringhee Road.
Stephen
Court—18 Park Street.
Stephen House— 4 & 5 Dalhousie
Square. Phone, Cal. 1108.
Subid All Buildings—1 Madan Street.
Subid
Ali Mansion—4C Madan Street.
Sultan
Mansion—12 Marsden Street.
Temple
Chambers—6 Old Post Office Street.
Victoria Chambers—5 Chowringhee Road.
Victoria
Court—91 Elliott Road.
Victoria House—Chowringhee Square.
Phone, Cal. 6200.
Waterloo
Mansion—12 Waterloo Street.
Waverley
Mansion—77/2 Sutendra Nath Banerjee Road.
Wellesley
Mansion—44 Wellesley Street- .
White House—21 Chittaranjan Avenue.
Windsor
Court—5A Sunder Street.
Windsor House—P14
Mission Row Extension.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 244-246 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
!!NEW!!
Humayon
Court – above the Lighthouse and New Empire
Cinemas
Mazda Mansions – Free School
Street (directly opposite the Armenian
College)
Noor Buildings – Park Circus, 31 Beck Bagan Row.
Palace Court – in central Calcutta.
(Source:
Contributors)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
Galstaun mansions
Some time early in this century an Armenian
land-developer named Galstaun made a mint of money in Calcutta
... One of his more solid enterprises was the building of several huge four-
and five-storey blocks of modern flats designed with some degree of luxury for
the use of European residents. In actual fact, by the 1930s the residents were
a mixed lot. Mark you, no Indians, but a variety of mixed descent in that grey
area described as 'of the country'. One of these blocks was called inevitably
Galstaun Mansions and it was here that I came to live chez Hummer for the two
and a half years of my work as Under-Secretary to the government. It had a view
over the Maidan, a lovely big room, ample and very good accommodation for my
servants; my own official telephone installed on the nod, and a superb verandah
with exotic plants and bead curtains. This verandah was not of course part of
my rented space, but Mrs Hummer made it clear I was welcome to sit there in the
early evening for my 'sundowner' drink, which she would share ... Now, at the
dog-end of things, some fifty odd years later, there are many nostalgic memories,
but no single one is more compelling than the recollection of those evening
sessions on the verandah. I can hear the little sounds, feel the dusk turning
to night and smell the smoke of the bustees' fires all around ... it faced
southwest over the roofs of the bungalows below. It had a shiny pseudo-marble
floor, a huge punkah revolving slowly and silently in the ceiling, basket
chairs and small tables, all the inevitable bric-a-brac of an Indian residence.
A cool evening breeze seemed always to be blowing off the river Hooghly, and
the kass-kass blinds had just been rolled up to reveal the lights of the city
below, and you could hear the distant rumble of traffic down Chowringhee.
Micheal
Carritt, ICS officer. Calcutta,
1930s.
(source:
Micheal Carritt: A Mole in the Crown. New
Delhi: Rupa 1986)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with
Micheal Carritt )
Keeping Open House
My flat was
at the top of a block near the Bishop's House at the south end of Chowringhee
... You entered the flat along a sort of open corridor, windowless on one side.
Immediately in front stood the door to a small boxlike bedroom-writing room
plus bathroom. This region I kept for myself. All the rest of the flat had by
now become 'open house' to uniformed visitors ... The hospitality offered
wasn't a thought-out affair—it had just evolved during the latter part of '41
as I got to know some newly-arrived British N.C.O.'s and thought well of them
... They brought friends; one thing led to another and by August '42 the flat
was scarcely ever guestless ... men just arrived, by plane from the forward
airstrips or off the leave trains,
sweaty and tired; threw their soiled clothes on the floor ... bathed, and
settled in. Food they knew would be good, and the rooms reasonably clean and
there'd be no houseproud 'memsahib' to worry over who did what or where things
went. On January nights, when Calcutta
can be chilly, if there wasn't enough bedding, the curtains came down and were
used instead. A kind of practical communism prevailed. No one seemed to own
anything in particular. I finished the war with more books and gramophone
records than I began with, but few were those I'd had at the start.
Ian
Stephens, editor of the Statesman. Calcutta,
1941-42
(source:
Ian Stephens: Monsoon Morning. London:
Ernest Benn, 1966)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with : Ian Stephens 1966)
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Agabeg's Boarding Establishment—24
Chowringhee Road. Phone, Cal. 3721.
Astor House—44 Theatre Road. Phone, P.K.
745.
Bengal
Boarding House—46/7 Harrison Road. Phone, B.B. 2008.
Buchanan's Boarding Establishment—14/1
Sudder Street. Phone, Cal. 3752.
City Boarding—27 Harrison Road. Phone,
B.B. 3851.
Grand National Boarding—1
Bhabanath Sen St. Phe., B.B. 3180.
Hayton. R. A. —6 Rawdon Street.
Phone. P.K. 841.
Hayton's Board and Residence—161
Dharamtala St. Phe., Cal. 1310.
Hollywood
Boarding House—3 Ripon Street. Phone, P.K. 207.
Holm Croft—2/1 Harrington Street- Phone.
P.K. 178.
Kenilworth—7
Little Russell Street. Phone, P.K. 325.
Killarney Lodge—3 Wood Street. Phone.
P.K. 261.
Loch Lomond Lodge, Ltd. —12/1
Pretoria Street. Phone, P.K.1479.
McDonnell, L., Ltd. Boarding
Establishment—1 Bishop Lefroy Road. Phone, P.K. 235.
New Kenilworth—1 & 2 Little Russell
Street. Phone, P.K. 1879.
Presidency Boarding House—66 Harrison
Road. Phone, B.B. 3569.
Salvation Army Naval and Military Home—2
Sudder Street. Phone, Cal. 3883.
Santi-Niketan Boarding House—16 Harrison
Road. Phe., B.B.671.
Sarkies' Central Lodge—6/2 &. 6/3
Sudder Street. Phe.,
Cal. 5160.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 248 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
!!NEW!!
Fairlawns – Sudder Street
(Source:
Contributors)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
… a pair of trousers and shoes for Rs 15
I made my first trip to Calcutta
from Cochin
in a third-class compartment of Howrah Mail. The
ticket cost Rs 13.
I put up at a hotel owned by south Indians on Lake
Road where a dormitory bed and two meals a day cost
Rs 12 per month. At a departmental store in Esplanade, which is still there, I
purchased a shirt and a pair of trousers and shoes for Rs 15.
First-class tram fare from Lake
Market to Dalhousie was
one anna then.
(N.S.
Mani, newly employed office worker from Kerala, Calcutta, February 1945
(source: Telegraph Thursday, October 27, 2005)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with N.S. Mani )
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Addresses of Hostels
in 1940
Baker Hostel—8 Smith Lane. For students
of Islamia College.
Birkmyre Hostel—4 Middleton Row- Phone,
P.K. 998. Page 208.
Carmichael
Hostel—51 Baitakhana Road. For Muslim students.
Elliott Hostel—Wellesley Square. For
Madrassah students.
Oxford Mission
Students' Hostel—43 Cornwallis. Street. Phone, B.B.4481.
Ram Mohan Roy
Hostel—102 Amherst
Street. For students’ of City College.
Salvation Army Gidney Hostel for Young
Business Women— 38 Dharamtala Street. Phone, Cal. 1673.
Scottish
Church College Lady Dundas Hostel—17/1 Cornwallis Street.
Phone, B.B. 3358.
St. Xavier's College Hostel—30 Park
Street.
St. Xavier's College Hostel for Indian
Students—219/1 Lower Circular Road.
Vidyasagar
College Hostel—17 Cornwallis Street.
John Barry, journalist, Calcutta, 1939/40
(source
pages 220 of John Barry: “Calcutta 1940” Calcutta:
Central Press, 1940.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with John Barry 1940)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
Children near entrance
to U. S. air base at Alipore, somewhere
Garden Reach Road. Calcutta
Glenn
Hensley, Photography Technician with US Army Airforce, Summer 1944
(source: Glenn S. Hensley: Children at air base entrance, I003,
"Children near entrance to U. S. air base at Alipore, somewhere Garden Reach Road. Calcutta," seen at University of Chicago Hensley Photo
Library at http://dsal.uchicago.edu/images/hensley
as well as a series of E-Mail
interviews with Glenn Hensley between 12th June 2001 and 28th
August 2001)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced by permission of Glenn Hensley and
under a Creative Commons license)
Calcutta's poor
Calcutta's
poor from a line to buy kerosene at 6 a.m.
Each little cubicle may contain a shop and living quarters for a family
ranging possibly from 6 to 12. Sanitary
facilities consist of an open street drain.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
Cow dung patties
"Patty-cake Annie" is the nickname
tagged to the makers of India's
most plentiful fuel by American Soldiers who must indulge their sense of
humor. The sun-baked cow-dung patties
are used by the poorer classes who cannot afford scarce wood for fuel to heat
their homes and cook their food.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
Nothing can equal, for squalor and filth
and stench, the bustees
Nothing
can equal, for squalor and filth and stench, the bustees (workers'
quarters) in Howrah and the suburbs north of Calcutta.
. . . The great majority of the workers in the jute mills are compelled to live
in private bustees. Under the Bengal Municipalities Act the duty of
improving the slum areas is cast on the owners who make very handsome incomes
from the poor occupants. But vested interests see to it that these powers under
the Act are never brought into operation. It would be impossible to describe
the condition of these bustees—' filthy disease-ridden hovels ',
as they have been called, with no windows, chimneys or fireplaces, and the
doorways so low that one has to bend almost on one's knees to enter. There is
neither light nor water supply, and of course no sanitary arrangements. Access
to groups of bustees is usually along a narrow tunnel of filth, breeding
almost throughout the year, but particularly during the rains, myriads of mosquitoes
and flies. . . .
"Conditions
in certain parts of Howrah, which is the second
biggest municipality in Bengal, are even worse than in the northern suburbs of Calcutta.
Land being extremely valuable has been built on to the last available foot. The
lanes on either sides of which these bustees have been built are not
more than 3 feet wide, but right through them, as in the other mill areas, run
the open drains."
(Shiva Rao: "The Industrial Worker in
India" pp. 113-140)
(source:
pages 363-364 of Rajani Palme Dutt: “India
To-Day” London:
Victor Gollancz, 1940)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Rajani Palme Dutt)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
We could look into the households in the
slum from our third floor apartment windows
My father was a secretary of Calcutta
YMCA and we stayed in a YMCA campus that had enormous lawns. Right in front of
the building was a slum of poor non-Bengali Muslims from UP and Bihar, part of
the large immigrant work force that kept the Bengali city alive. Everyone used
to call them upcountry Muslims then. We could look into the households in the
slum from our third floor apartment windows and see housewives cooking their
meals and children playing. Beyond the slum were a couple of lower-middle and
middle-middle class Bengali Hindu localities and, beyond them, another large
slum of upcountry Muslims, Raja Bazaar. But unlike the next-door slum – modest,
nameless – that slum was notorious as a den of criminals. In our slum, we used
to know many of the residents by face. Some of the welfare work of the YMCA was
meant for them and that also made them obsequious and friendly.
Ashis
Nandy. Schoolboy, Calcutta,
1946
(source pages2
of Ashis Nandy: “Death of an Empire” in Persimmon. Asian Literature,
Arts and Culture (Volume III, Number 1, New York, Spring 200r also
www.sarai.net/journal/02PDF/03morphologies/ 04death_empire.pdf pp 14-20 Sarai Reader 2002: The Cities of
Everyday Life.)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with Ashis Nandy)
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
R & R Hotel.
Calcutta
Robert Sanders
, USAAF 40th Bombergroup. Calcutta, 1945
(source: webpage http://40thbombgroup.org/indiapics2.html Monday,
03-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of
Bob Sanders)
Karnani Estates
Karnani Estates, mammoth apartment hotel for U.S.
Army officers. Known to the many thousands
of transient and locally based officers as a social center, it has been
provided with one of the most elaborately decorated bars of any officers club
in the CBI theater.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
BILLETING
Officers. Whether in Calcutta
on leave or on duty an officer should have a written authorization to be in this
city. Your best bet is to report immediately to the Billeting Officer in the Hindusthan
Building in order to be
steered straight to the most desirable quarters vacant. Bring copies of those
orders. To telephone the Billeting Officer call Calcutta
7080, Ext. 22 between 0830-2400 hours. After 2400 hours, call Calcutta
3912.
Enlisted Men. The American Red
Cross Clubs have the best accommodations (and other billeting data) for E.M. If
the ARC is unable to handle you, consult the Billeting Officer, Hindusthan
Building, for the names of
small hotels and rooming houses that are in-bounds. E.M. on T.D. in Calcutta
must report to the Billeting Officer first. If nothing is available in the city
the Billeting Officer will billet you in a nearby Army camp. The Continental
Services Club, the Y.M.C.A., and the Salvation Army all maintain information
service on billeting in the city.
Things To Remember. 1. In all
places tap water is unfit to drink. Ask your room bearer for drinking water.
2. Lock up or check those Arms and Ammunition.
3. Bearers are paid by the hotel; therefore
tipping is optional. If you're well-heeled kick in with a couple of annas but
don't overdo it. Other people have to live there.
4. Most hotels operate on the European Plan
which means that the rate per day includes three meals.
5. Each hotel has a laundry price list. When
paying for laundry insist that the dhobie show you this list.
6. If you attempt the American habit of
stripping a hotel room when you leave, it may prove embarrassing; for you'd be
surprised how quickly those room bearers will trot out their mental check lists
as you're in the act of departing.
(source: “The Calcutta Key” Services of Supply
Base Section Two Division, Information and education Branch, United States Army
Forces in India - Burma, 1945: at:
http://cbi-theater-12.home.comcast.net/~cbi-theater-12/calcuttakey/calcutta_key.html)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Roommates
After I wrote you last
night, I expected to get to bed in reasonable time, but that was not to be. No
indeed. Gus came in in a disgusting state of inebriation, and was so argumentative
that I finally had to tell him off...after which he rather sullenly went to
bed, lay there looking and sounding greatly like a dully animated porcine
structure. I was about ready to turn the lights off when Captain Parsons
entered, awakened Gus, and both of them indulged in drunken horseplay. Then
they decided to gave some more drinks, and to satisfy them, I had a bottle of
beer with them. They talked about everything, with Parsons rather rational, Gus
clever enough, but belching hoggishly ever few moments. Not an inspiring sight,
I assure you.
If my previous
description of him sounded unflattering, it was because I was so impressed with
the pig-like characteristics that his nose, mouth, and receding chin, with that
crew cut lend his features at such moments. Shove an apple in his mouth and you
might be very surprised indeed. If sound effects oinked, that would do it, and
you could never tell the difference.
At any rate, Parsons
wanted me to go outside to talk to him privately. He wanted to tell me
something in my professional capacity. It was largely to the effect that he was
drinking too much, realized it, and wanted to know what was wrong with him.
From what he said, it seems that he feels inferior because he has only a fifth
grade education; has been overseas before but this time he had to leave a wife
and the only home security he ever knew. He hates his own people, and dislikes
his present job of utilities officer very much. He kept me up until 3:30, and
of course I did him no good. I understand now why he stresses that item of rank
so much...it is the only thing he can pull.
Richard Beard,
US Army Lieutenant
Psychologist with 142 US
military hospital. Calcutta,
October 13, 1945.
(Source: p.217 of Elaine Pinkerton (ed.): “From
Calcutta With Love: The World War II Letters of Richard and Reva Beard”
Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press, 2002 / Reproduced by courtesy of Texas
Tech University Press)
Pin-up girls in the wind
April 9, 1945
Dearest Ritter:
The frolicking wind blows wildly and irresponsibly
through our compartment at this 5:30 afternoon hour. Our pinup girls are
dancing on their heads or really kicking up their heels in wild abandon. Still
no rain and so our lives are talcumed with dust at all hours of the day and
night.
[…]
Richard Beard,
US Army Lieutenant
Psychologist with 142 US
military hospital. Calcutta,
April 9, 1945
(Source: page 140 ff of Elaine Pinkerton (ed.): “From Calcutta With Love: The World
War II Letters of Richard and Reva Beard” Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press,
2002 / Reproduced by courtesy of Texas Tech University Press)
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
Eventually we arrived at Calcutta
Eventually we arrived
at Calcutta, and
were billeted in a large Military Camp. It was a treat to be able to walk
around again, and have a shower and clean up and get our clothes washed. Can
you imagine how dirty we were after seven days on that stinking train? Our
clothes were stiff and dirty, after being soaked in sweat, and dust for seven
days, so the cold showers and the Bamboo Huts of the camp were considered to be
a bit of a luxury.
Stan Martin, soldier,
Calcutta, early 1940s
(source: A1982955 Stan Martin's WW2 story at BBC
WW2 People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/
Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Quartered on the Race Track
I arrived in India in the fall of 1944 and
departed on Dec. 7th of 1945 on the anniversary of Pearl Harbor, on the USS
General William Black.
My tour of duty in the CBI was a member of the
73rd Ord. Depot Co., located in Calcutta,
India and I
worked with the 809th Ord. Depot Co. (as part of the 12th Ord. Bn.).
We were housed at an orphanage in Dum Dum, a
province of Calcutta and in the last six months of my tour we moved to Camp
Hialeah which was located in the very center of the Calcutta Race Track across
from Queen Victoria's Memorial. They were racing every day during the war. We
were sleeping on straw-filled mattresses in mud-built huts with straw roofs,
plus the daily dust, dirt and other waste of the race horses was not a pleasurable
place to be for "one's health."
Arthur
W. Sprankel, US Army soldier, 73rd Ord. Depot Co, Calcutta
late 1945
(source:
CBI Sound-off.Vol.49, No 2 Spring 2003)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial educational
research project. The copyright remains with Arthur W. Sprankel &
CBI Sound Off)
Dengue fever at the museum
[…] we were billeted
in the museum. This was in the main street of Calcutta,
called Charingie. While I was there, we were getting bitten so much by the bugs
in the place that I got Dingy fever, so I had a couple of days in bed. It
cleared up and we were able to carry on and go to the pictures, […]which were
really nice out there, because they were all air-conditioned and it was so hot
in Calcutta. I
always remember that on one occasion we went to see 'Romeo and Juliet'.
Obviously it wasn't our taste of a picture and we made ourselves a bit of a
nuisance what with, 'Wherefore art thou, Romeo?' and all the rest of it. 'Ssh,
ssh', people went, so we got up and walked out.
Kenneth Shaw
Prout, Army, Calcutta,
1944
(source: A5526489 Memories of a Bombardier 1940
- 1946 (Part 4) at BBC WW2
People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Daddy would’nt put the officers who
organised this camp in charge of a public lavatory in the smallest village in
England
After going to an old camp where all particulars were taken, Daddy
went with some others to a camp which had'nt long been built, situated at a
suburb of Calcutta
called Ballygunge. Here Daddy found himself a charpoy and then went off to have
a shower followed by some dinner. By this time it was dark and Daddy had
already realised that if "Worli" was the best organised camp he had
ever been to then this present one from all the signs, was the worst. In fact,
Daddy would’nt put the officers who organised this camp in charge of a public
lavatory in the smallest village in England.
After writing a letter to Mummy which would go off in an aeroplane in the
morning all the way to England,
Daddy had a good sleep because he was very tired after his journey and all the
waiting about.
Leonard Charles
Irvine, 4393843, Royal Air Force Flt Sgt Nav, Calcutta,
1945
(source: Leonard
Charles Irvine "A LETTER TO
MY SON" at BBC WW2 People's
War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
Billeted in Alipore
Once again I was alone,
no mates, and then a transfer to Alipore where all the trains turned around and
the posh rich kids lived. My billet was a big house in a nice town with native
policemen on the gate, (who seemed to let anyone in regardless), and half a
dozen Indian boys who cooked lovely chips for a few annas.
Philip Miles, RAF photo reconnaissance unit, Calcutta, mid
1940s
(source: A4144664 What did you do in the RAF,
Dad? (Part 2) at BBC WW2
People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
First impressions: Calcutta
16 July
1945: My first impressions of Calcutta
were rather mixed. Besides having to pass through some of the worst areas, the
inside of an ambulance is not the best place from which to view any city.
The
hospital — Entally — was a pleasant surprise to us. We drove in through the
bold iron gates, on either side of which extended high stone walls that
encompass the entire hospital. We were taken past the main hospital buildings,
which looked very imposing and consisted of white stone buildings with green
shutters, rather on French lines — not surprising since it was originally a
convent.
Watching
fireflies on the veranda
Finally,
we arrived at our mess. This indeed is very pleasant. It is a two-storey
building with upper balcony, and my room is over the dining room. The floors
are highly polished stone.
Matron
takes a keen interest in the garden, and just now, with the rain, it is at its
best. The lawns are beautifully green. In fact, apart from a few tropical palm
trees mixed in with other trees, and of course the everlasting heat, with the
roses in bloom, hollyhocks and gladioli one could easily imagine it was England.
There’s the same noisy rooks, chattering sparrows, planes overhead and the
railway near by.
What I
most like doing is sitting in the cool of the evening (after a most satisfying
dinner) on the veranda — watching the fireflies, flit to and fro in the dark
like lighted matches, while the crickets sing and the little lizards dart
around catching flies.
Henrietta Susan
Isabella Burness, V.A.D., Calcutta,
16th July1945
(source: A1940870 Life in the VAD (Voluntary Aid
Detachment), 1945at BBC WW2
People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
So I
was not the most popular bloke
Alipore was a photo
reconnaissance unit with (at last) Mosquito aircraft. I was in charge of ‘A' flight
and had all airforce and instrument mechanics, most of the men were not keen
upon having a strange NCO put in over them. I knew none of them, and they had
been together all the way through Burma with photo reconnaissance spitfires,
dating back from the time Singapore fell to Japan, all the way to India. And
who was this mystery man (who knew about the new aircraft?) which none of them
had ever seen before. So I was not the most popular bloke and I didn't even
live with them but went off to my posh billet only to appear the next day.
Any major jobs and air
tests, I was in charge (but not over the engine fitters they were a separate
unit but they still lived with the other gangs). Any air tests I did, I flew
with the ordinary pilot of that particular plane, and quite a few times I flew
with the Group Captain. I got to know him quite well, really a nice man but
again it did not make me the most popular, but what could I do it was my job.
One day a few of us were taken to Dum Dum, Calcutta,
where we spent a few days to see what happened to all the photography and how
they (mostly girls) interpreted them. Four of us slept in little dark rooms in
the Harem of the Palace of the Maharaja of Cooch Behar who had long since gone
(taking all the harem girls with him.)
Philip Miles, RAF photo reconnaissance unit, Calcutta, mid
1940s
(source: A4144664 What did you do in the RAF,
Dad? (Part 2) at BBC WW2
People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
A day out at the front
[Pilot
Officer Thirlwell was a photo-reconnaissance Hurricane pilot, who arrived at Magwe
just after the last of his squadron's aircraft crashed. As he had no job,
he was sent] to Lashio to investigate the possibility of flying out the
squadron personnel by China
Airways to India.
I went to the orderly room Flight Sergeant for transport, and he said 'you can
have this Wolseley Fourteen, but I want something in return'. So I swapped a
typewriter I found in the house in which I was billeted for this car, and drove
to Lashio. Having confirmed the availability of China
Airways, I was flown to Calcutta, only to be
sent back to Burma,
where I spent most of my time rescuing the special cameras from crashed
photo-recce aircraft. After getting out of Burma
for a second time, I had an extraordinary period based at the Great Eastern in Calcutta,
the most expensive hotel in town. I would get into my Hurricane at Dum-Dum, fly
to Chittagong
where I refuelled from petrol drums using a hand pump. Having spent the night
with the British Consul, I would fly to photograph Rangoon,
before returning for more fuel at Chittagong,
and on to Dum-Dum to get the film processed as quickly as possible. After a
shower in the Great Eastern I would sit down to dinner being served by bearers
in white coats and gloves.
Pilot
Officer Thirlwell, pilot of an RAF
photo-reconnaissance Hurricane. Caclutta, mid 1940s .
(source:
page 360, Julian Thompson: “The Imperial
War Museum
Book of the The War in Burma
1942-1945. London:
Sidgwick & Jackson, 2002)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Julian Thompson)
Charpoys
[…] with a good bed to
sleep on at night, we called them "charpoys", an Indian description
for bed. Even the good beds were nothing like the ones we had back home, they
were usually made of bamboo with jute twine as body support. We had the luxury
here of having white sheets and always with the inevitable mosquito net to be
slung over the bed supports.
Cliford Wood, Royal Air Force
wireless operator, Calcutta, 1943-44
(source: A4254103 AN RAF WIRELESS OPERATOR ON
THE BURMA
FRONT (Part 3 of 3) at BBC WW2
People's War' on http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/ Oct 2006)
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non commercial
educational research project. The copyright remains with the original
submitter/author)
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
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_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
Indian child bride
India
has thousands of child brides. The
unfortunate young woman shown here feeding the infant from the giant coconut in
foreground has been seen on Calcutta's
streets day after day with he child.
Her misery is more than typical thousands of India's
unfortunates.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
Homeless natives, sleeping
Most any block in the slum areas will find natives
sleeping huddled together under any shelter they can find, frequently none at
all. How the thousands of homeless can
survive under such conditions is beyond the understanding of many Western
visitors.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
A British view of a Calcutta Street
Imagine walking
along, say, Dalton Road and seeing, say, the Spencer brothers—one
sitting crosslegged in the midst of his wares in a loincloth and a beautiful
turban, the other .sitting right in the middle of the pavement bathing himself
(with his clothes on') at one of the wells of water that spring up at intervals
all the way along. Then next door probably a soothsayer or phrenologist with
all sorts of weirdlooking objects hanging outside—tortoise shells, dead things,
goodness know; what! Then, say, Mr Bell lying in his .string bed fast asleep in
the street—or sitting there stitching away and machining in the midst of naked
little urchins—boys, yelling little coloured birds. Rickshaws being drawn by
men, gharries by horses. Dead cats and rats lying about all over the place!
Such a bewildering conglomera tion—it is indescribable!
Laura
Lidrell, atcress. Calcutta1944
(source:
Geoffrey Kendal: The Shakespeare Wallah. London:
Sidgick & Jackson, 1986 )
(COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Reproduced under 'fair dealing' terms as part of a non
commercial educational research project. The copyright remains with Geoffrey Kendal)
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Clothes
& Fashions
_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
Indian women in native sarees
Indian women, dressed in the native Saree,
return from prayer at Jain
Temple. Little girls wear European dress usually
until the marriage age, although some
mothers like to dress the little girls in Sarees.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix magazine.
Calcutta, mid
1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
Sidewalk tonsorial parlor
Sidewalk tonsorial parlor. India
probably has a greater proportion of barbers than any nation, for in addition
to the many salons which cater to the European and higher type Indian trade,
these sidewalk shavers seem to ply their trade in every other block.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source: webpage
http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
Clothes washing
In case there's any doubt in our mind as to your
dhobie's intentions with your best shirt, the expression on the face of the
fiendish laundry-wallah battering the garment in this picture should remove
it.
In closing this album of Calcutta,
the writer feels justified in observing that the reasons for the dhobie's
methods remain, in spite of much research, among the greater mysteries of India.
Clyde Waddell, US military man, personal press
photographer of Lord Louis Mountbatten, and news photographer on Phoenix
magazine. Calcutta,
mid 1940s
(source:
webpage http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/sasia/calcutta1947/? Monday, 16-Jun-2003 / Reproduced by courtesy of David N. Nelson,
South Asia Bibliographer, Van Pelt Library, University
of Pennsylvania)
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
hated having the rolls in my hair every
night
Not long after that my
Uncle Bertie died. In company with many other little girls, I used to have my
hair twisted with rags every night to produce a Shirley Temple effect. My hair
was naturally curly anyway and people had a habit of sticking a finger into one
of my curls and pulling it out. I hated this - hated having the rolls in my
hair every night and on the day of the funeral I was sitting at the piano -
tinkling on the keys and somebody stuck a finger in one of my curls, I jerked
my head away and turned round to see Aunty Laura - his widow and remember
thinking "I must be nice to her today." To this day, I detest having
rollers in my hair!
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Calcutta
1939
(source:
page 13 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
"Juliana curl"
Dr Sinha was an Indian man who was married to an
English woman called Lilian. She was very friendly with my Aunt Dolly, possibly
having a common base in that they were both white girls married to Indian men.
Lilian, or Aunty Lil as we called her wore saries and she had long golden hair
which reached to her ankles. They had two girls called Renee and Joyce. Joyce's
claim to fame in my memory was an incident when she tried to do something
called a "Juliana curl" in her hair and lodged a comb so fast in her
tresses that it had to be cut out. Thereafter, a Juliana curl became a sort of
in house joke with us.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Dehra Dun 1939
(source:
page 12 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian Tale:
The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
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Toys
_____Pictures of 1940s
Calcutta_________________________
_____Contemporary
Records of or about 1940s Calcutta___
_____Memories
of 1940s Calcutta_________________________
I was given a rubber doll for Christmas
That year, I was given a rubber doll for Christmas
which was something of a novelty because rubber dolls had just become
fashionable and mine had been specially imported. My brother Barney - always a
hit of a nut - put it in the fire. Dehra
Dun is cold in winter and we had a big open fire in the living
room. He said he did it to see what rubber smells like when it bums. Anyway, he
put it in the fire and came outside and sat down as if nothing had happened. My
Aunt and my sisters and my mother were all gathered round the
"Churi-wallee". This was a woman who came round with a basket on her
head, filled with glass bangles (Churies was the Indian word for bangles) and
she had a wonderful knack of getting the smallest possible bangles over one's
wrist. Suddenly, one of the girls noticed that the curtains were alight and
immediately there was a great hue and cry until the flames had been
extinguished and it was then that Barney's little trick was discovered for
which he was soundly thrashed. Barney always seemed to be getting thrashed and
it used to break my heart so that in the end, I took to saying I had done
something or other which in fact he had, in order to save him from the
beatings. I was never beaten, being the youngest, smallest and everybody's
darling.
Elizabeth
James (nee Shah), AngloIndian schoolgirl. Dehra Dun 1939
(source:
page 12-13 Elizabeth James: An Anglo Indian
Tale: The Betrayal of Innocence. Delhi:
Originals, 2004 / Reproduced by courtesy of Elizabeth James (nee Shah))
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